GWR River Class loco

[753]

Of all the Great Western locos I have built over the years the River class 2-4-0 has to be the most admired, the pierced double framing of the engine and tender to me make a very elegant loco.
I know the engine quiet well now as I have built versions in 7mm, and G1, I think a G3 version would be delightful.

Mike

[Alan_H]

Mike, I built a 7mm version many years ago, I'll try to find a photo. Numbers 72, 74 and 76 had belpaire B4 boilers fitted in 1910-1911, I have tried without success to find a photograph of one in this condition - I wonder if they ran with a 2,500 gallon tender like the Dean goods?

Alan

[Alan_H]

I found a photo and, using blacksmith IT skills, rendered an idea of a River class loco with a B4 boiler might have looked like.

Now where's that Dean Goods kit...........

[753]

Alan, that's a fine piece of modelling, pleasing to know that others appreciate the elegance of early GWR engines.

I sold most of my 7mm engines and stock a few years ago, but I still have my River and Pannier Tank that I built.

Mike

[Alan_H]

Oh dear.......looks another project to add to the list!

[753]

Alan

That's good to know you are building a River as well, my one will be a winter project as I still have odds and end to finish first. Will you cut out the crank of the drivers or leave?

Mike

[Alan_H]

Mike,

I just got excited with the thought of building a larger version! I will be removing the moulded cranks, although they won't be seen when it's in full flight, the odds are you could see them at rest!

Alan

[753]

First assembly of the River chassis, the wheels are made from 6mm ali plate with tyres cut from 4in dia steel bar, the inside frame is made from 1.5mm steel sheet and the outside sandwich frame is made from 0.7mm brass sheet.
The motor /gearbox is from Slaters, an excellent bit of kit although rather expensive.

Mike

[753]

There was an exchange of ideas a few months ago on how to form a boiler barrel around splashers. http://g3forum.org.uk/index.php/topic,2520.15.html
The last two locos I built had large drivers and hence large splashers, I formed the firebox and barrel then offered up the splashers to mark a line where to cut, a long winded process and lots of filling to shape.
Not satisfied with that idea I wondered if you could draw out the firebox and barrel as a flat shape, then form the firebox and roll the barrel would it fit the splashers?
I tacked the splashers in place and using known reference points like wheel centres, height of the top of firebox to those centres, length of the top of barrel, diameter of splashers I was able to draw the developed shape. Then made a test piece in styrene, and low and behold it fitted perfectly.
I can recommend this process as it makes a difficult part of loco construction a pleasure.

Mike

[Alan_H]

Mike,

Looks like mine will have to have a B4 boiler then, just to be different!!

Alan

[Nick]

Very neat, Mike. I'll have to try that next time.

In the other thread I mentioned trying to develop the boiler shape in CAD. For the record, that didn't happen. I can draw the boiler with cutaways for splashers, and I'm sure that somewhere in F360's vast array of features there must be a way to develop the boiler shell into a flat plate, but I have yet to find it. At some point I'll have another look - I can't be the only user wanting it.

Nick

[753]

Nick

Drawing the developed shape in CAD is not difficult once you have the reference points. I started from the centre line and worked out on one side only, once the side drawing is complete I used the mirror function to complete the whole.
Making a test dummy will prove the drawing.

Mike

[753]

Springs for the River loco and tender they are made from 4mm ali plate, the leaves are engraved using a V pointed engraving tool with the spindle stationary. The outline is cut with a 3mm end mill.

Mike

[753]

Good progress on the River project a few more details to be added plus the back head. The paint livery requires masking the brass beading on the driver splashers and cab corner, I have used paper masking tape in the past as you can mould it around detail, what do others use?

Mike

[John Candy]

Looking nice Mike.
As it happens, I have, this morning, bought a fresh bottle of Humbrol Maskol from the model shop in Ely.
I have a bottle which is at least 40 years old but is now unusable!
I need it to mask the spectacles and other brightwork on the LNWR Coal Tanks which are nearing completion.
I normally use a combination of Tamiya masking tape for fine masking (which comes in a variety of widths) and yellow Frogtape for blanket coverage. Brush-on Maskol will be easier to apply to the circular parts.

Regards,
John.