G3 Clubroom

The Forum for Gauge 3 Model Trains

Very nice John.

I hope you bring it inside when not running.

Wouldn't want the squirrels using it as tree house! :-)

Regards,


IanT

A signal box is needed for my main terminus and a photo of Chester No.6 caught my attention.
I don't need one quite that big but the LNWR employed modular, timber, designs, adaptable for various lengths and mountable on different foundations, including brick, timber and over-track girder-work.
I decided a box to accommodate 45 levers would be "about right" and opted for the final LNWR design, "Type 5", size "J".
Chester No.6 was/is(?) an earlier Type 4 design, so I used Mossley box (also illustrated in "LNWR Portrayed", Jack Nelson, Peco Publications 1975) as a guide.

The book contains scale drawings of several types of box, including the Type 5.

The results of my efforts are illustrated, the box being designed to span double track.
It is 3D printed, apart from the laser cut plywood floor and the brass wire for the hand rails.

John.

Thanks, Ralph, I'll give it a try.

Jon

Have you tried plugging the holes with Blu-tac and then skewers through the holes to capture the wheel?

Regards

Ralph

Can anyone suggest a way to hold Slaters locomotive wheels while they are being spray painted.  I appreciate that the threads will need protecting.

Jon

The next job is the hornguides. I need a couple of dozen of them, so some organisation is called for, because I'd drive myself nuts if I had to mark out and cut each one individually. What we need is a jig, or several jigs. Spoiler alert! This is the end product.



The first question is, what are the important dimensions and features? The holes here have to align with the holes in the frame to pass the rivets through, and the hornguide must be a right angle for the axlebox to move as it should. Sounds obvious, but the answer tells us how to proceed. Get those things right and the parts will fit and do what they have to do. I can allow a bit of leeway elsewhere. Not so much as to be screaming obvious, just not to be quite so careful about.

The right angle is ensured by starting with some milled (not rolled) angle of the correct dimension. The photos below shows one such clamped in a jig for drilling the holes. That way I have only to set out the holes once. The jig is also the exact width so that after drilling I can use it to cut and file the angle to length without having to measure.

The angles are LH and RH, so the jig is reversible - do one half the angles, turn it over and do the other half.





And here are the two sets.



One of the outer corners is radiused. I filed a quarter circle on a scrap of material of the right size, clamped it to each angle in turn and used it as a filing jig. But forgot to take a photograph - sorry.

Next up is the base which is soldered in place. Here is the soldering jig which is just a few pieces of scrap wood. It holds each angle against a strip of material that has the correct width and is much too long in order to make it easy to hold. After soldering, the base is cut and filed to size. The soldering jig has LH and RH sides, too.



Finally, there is a hole to drill and tap in the base for the stud that will eventually hold the keeper in place. Another drilling jig is called for in which the angle can be clamped for drilling. Tapping is then done by hand.





And there they all are, lined up and ready for riveting to the frame. Yes, there are two tenders' worth. It's a lot more time-effective to set up and do them all now, rather than half now and half at some later date.



Nick

Thank you

Mike,
 
A very nice result .... if a little "late" and austere by comparison with your usual elegant (Edwardian) offerings.

Regards,
John.

Good evening Jon,

I do not have a G6 kit but on my locos, I restrict lateral movement on outer axles to approx. 1mm by packing (in case of Slaters axles) with 6mm stainless washers.

The inner axles I allow around 3mm movement which is usually sufficient for curves down to 10ft radius (certainly on a short wheelbase).

Regards,
John.

I shall soon be releasing a range of "3D Print 4 Yourself" models but access to the STL files will be limited to Gauge 3 Society members.
To make use  of this service, members of this forum will need to join the G3S, unless already a Society member.

Shortly to become available will be:-
1) GCR 45ft 15T Bogie Fish Van
2) GWR P16 "Monster" 50ft bogie van
3) Southern Railway Maunsell 51ft 10T Bogie Luggage Van
4) GCR 18ft 10T 4-wheel Fish Van
5) LNWR dia.17 6-wheel 20T Brake Van
6) LNWR dia.17B 4-wheel 20T ("Crystal Palace") Brake Van
7) LMS 42ft CCT (D1870)

Earlier releases (GWR "Siphons", together with LNER Gresley and GCR passenger stock) are available to download from www.gauge3.info .

Although test models have been printed, assembly instructions for each are still to be compiled.
Watch out for further announcements when each has been uploaded.

Access will be granted by sending (using this forum's message system) to John Candy, whereupon a password will be sent with a download link (subject line of email to be "STL access request by <your G3S membership number>". Remember to check that the email address you have linked to the forum is still valid!

The GCR bogie fish van will be the first release, offered with choice of original or the later ,strengthened, ends (see test build photos below). The underframe and bogies for this model (in laser cut steel) are supplied by Williams Models (I believe there to be just a handful still available).





GWR P16 "MONSTER" (below)