Pre Quartereed drive axle sets

[Technocrat]

I am in the very preliminary stages of designing my first locomotive project. Does anyone know of a good source of pre-quartered drive axle sets, in either gage 3 or gage 1? If I can find them I will base my plans for an American prototype "Prairie" 2-6-2. Limitations on my end will mandate a steam profile electric model.

I seem to remember reading in a British model magazine (I do not remember which one) a kit project in gauge 0 that had pre-quartered drivers. These had axles with square ends to make it pretty well fool-proof.   

Sadly I cannot remember any of the companies involved.

[IanT]

I've not used them but I beleive that Slaters loco wheels are "pre-quartered" (can anyone confirm?)

However, whilst it is desirable for the wheels to be quartered at 90 degrees - it not actually essential.

The key thing is that all the wheel sets are set to the same angle (e.g. it could be 89 degrees). There are quite a few ways of getting this repeatability but it will depend on what you already have in the way of equipment (or what simple means you can dream up).

Apart from "squared ends" - the traditional method was to use a vice to squeeze the second wheel on (once it had been part pushed on and aligned using a quartering jig (or held in the lathe between centres or using an engineers square on a surface plate etc etc)

But for a really "bush" method (minimum kit required) draw a line across a short length of wood and glue two square lumps of wood to it (they should be approx the same height as the centreline of the axle). They should 'face' each other (one on each side of the line) and be about the same distance apart as the outside of the wheels (which should be a nice sliding fit between the two blocks).

Then all you need to do is loctite one axle on & let it set. Then you take the second wheel and loctite that one on whilst placing the wheel set between the two blocks. With one pin touching the bottom/front of one block, slide the second wheel around  until the other pin is resting on the top of the other block. Then hold everything steady (rubber bands will do it) until the second wheel has set. It may not set the wheels at exactly 90 degrees but it should let you (with care) achieve a good level of repeatability. Remember that the wheels will be handed  - and which one "leads" may vary depening on the practice of the Railway you are modelling.

Hope this helps widen your choice of wheels.

Regards,

IanT 

[John Candy]

Yes Ian, I can confirm that Slaters wheels have a squared end to the steel axle which locates into a square brass boss in the centre of the wheel. The wheels then screw onto the axles with an Allen screw.

Slaters wheels have a glass-filled moulding for the spokes, steel crank pin and a stainless steel tyre.

John.

[Traininvain]

Hi

Mark Wood who makes excellent cast iron wheels in G3 uses this device:

http://www.markwoodwheels.co.uk/wheels/presstool.htm

Ian

[Technocrat]

Thank you gentlemen.

You have given me much food for thought, especially your post IanT.

This design project is going slower than I had hoped, especially since I am a CAD designer by trade.   

Since this project will have six drivers, any thoughts on using smaller flanges or perhaps no flanges on the center set? I currently have no gage 3 track laid & will be limited to about a 6' radius due to available space.

Thanks again.

[John Candy]

As a guide, GRS claim their models are designed for a minimum 8ft radius and do have all wheels flanged (with axle side-play).

A very short wheelbase 6-coupled loco might take a 6ft curve if gauge-widened.

Ralph ("Cabbage" on the forum) runs with tight curves and can probably add to these comments.

John.

[AllWight]

My Terriers will negotiate a 7'radius but no more.

Mark

[cabbage]

"speak not the name of the evil one...." OK It seems that we both have a similar problem with geography and geology.  Living as I do high on the Chaddesden Escarpment in Derby -this means tight curves!!! I don't know what you are building but the speciality of the Cabbage Patch Railway is articulated locos (surprise!)

Now hold on to your copy of AutoCAD and read the following:

http://www.cabbagepatchrailway.co.uk/neree1pic108.jpg
http://www.cabbagepatchrailway.co.uk/mls/g3/bogies.pdf
http://www.cabbagepatchrailway.co.uk/mls/g3/articulated.pdf
http://www.cabbagepatchrailway.co.uk/mls/g3/mallet.pdf
http://www.cabbagepatchrailway.co.uk/mls/g3/curves1.pdf
http://www.cabbagepatchrailway.co.uk/mls/g3/curves2.pdf

Having built most of the major forms of articulation at 16mm scale I can tell you which ones to avoid....

AVOID.

KLOSE although the system is beautiful it is not easy to build unless you are dedicated to to watching linkage...
<<Systems HAGANS>> transmission by variable fulcrum levers is an obsolete system -a bit mind scrunching to "see" in your head as well.
Klein Lindener Axle yes -it works but that is about all that can be said for it.

CONSIDER.

Kraus Helmholtz Bogie system
Schwartzkopff-Eckhardt Bogie system
Beugniot lever system

What you have to remember is that it is a model not a scaled down loco. Treat it as such and you will grasp the mind set that enables you to throw out what happens beneath and simply have something that works. If this were a real life situation then my NER EE-1 would require 16 chain (scale) curves or 14.25m radius curves... However since the main driving axles are fitted on an Italian "Facetti" flexible spine system the axles will take a 7 feet 6 inch curve -with a yawn(!)

VIZ:
http://www.cabbagepatchrailway.co.uk/neree1pic78.jpg
http://www.cabbagepatchrailway.co.uk/neree1pic101.jpg
http://www.cabbagepatchrailway.co.uk/neree1pic105.jpg
http://www.cabbagepatchrailway.co.uk/neree1pic108.jpg

So, it is possible to have big locos and get them around tight corners -I hope this helps!

regards

ralph

[midnight miller]

 Hello All

Re wheels , Slaters range is very good , but limmited , As mentioned above there is also Mark Woods and not to be over looked are Roger and Les at Walsall Models who do a good job .


                                                     John

[Technocrat]

Thanks again.

Cabbage, you have shown me some things I had always wondered about. Thankfully, the prairie I have in mind was a small loco, by American standards anyway, intended primarily for branch line use. Some of your links will take some time to read & digest. I think I will do this prior to any more 3D modeling work on the computer.

While my property would allow a larger construction, I must negotiate all right of way with the "Lady of the Manor". I must also take into account that much of the property is intended to productive, not just ornamental. The back yard (garden) is not overly large & I am working within its confines to replace my  very small narrow gage (1:20.3 scale) gage one line with a dual gage setup.

[Technocrat]

Midnight,

I just came back from Walsall's site. They seem to have what I am needing. I will have to learn to properly quarter the axles, no apparent shortcuts.

I may just order a set for inspiration & motivation.

Thanks