Well having been very busy with a Universal AVO meter along my complete track work... The reason foe this back breaking effort has to do with the train detection system for the layout. Not very surprisingly it uses the fact that the wheels and axles "short" across the track. What was very surprising to me was the fact that the transistor detector said "Yes boss -there is a train there!" This was regardless of one being there or not...
But then it worked perfectly, moved to another section of track - it bombed out again(?)
Delving deep into Towers Transistor - I found out what the problem was. Because I am a cheapskate I used the transistors in the "bit box" -not the ones in the original "Freezer" circuit. The tranny used by Freezer is a general purpose BC108. The one I used is a "modern equivalent" . However it is rather more sensative rhan it its stone age forbears. The original sleepers were hardwood treated with a water soluble copper based preservative and supplied to me from Brandbright. After 17 years they had started to show their age. The damp sleepers at 24 to the yard conducted enough voltage to drive the system from Low to High. The only solution is to completely replace the wood sleepers with plastic ones. This is what I am doing at the moment.
Lifting the yard lengths and replacing the white metal chairs etc involves using a adjustable spanner as a slide hammer(!). Then a once over with a brillo and slide on the new sleepers. I have done about 20 yards so far and I think there must be at least another 30 yards to do...
Still the weather is fine and it is not as if I have anything else to do(!)
Regards
Ralph
(https://i.ibb.co/2hKd9R2/IMG-20200422-161809841.jpg) (https://ibb.co/2hKd9R2)
I am now out of replacement plastic sleepers... But testing on the replaced track shows that the system will work! I am sat in my "office" out of the sun and busy making "taps" for the track to electrify the insulated sections. This time the detector works with anything lower than 10ohms...
Regards
Ralph
Everything has been ordred from Cliff Barker... The wallet is seeking divorce on the grounds of cruelty. The track detection system will use his brass fishplates with electrical connections soldered to them. The new entrance and exit routes from Brassica have been worked out. The next problem I have is that although I have enough "Cobolt" points motors to complete the system no-one seems to have anymore in stock!!!
(https://i.ibb.co/Bsb7FdM/IMG-20200501-122627911.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Bsb7FdM)
Regards
Ralph
Right. Now the logical jiggery pokery.
The first jpg shows the route selection system. This is run off three on/off/on switches. The first bank of relays isolates the remaining two, thus ensuring only one of the six possible options will work. The 12line then feeds through a diode network to apply voltage to the dpdt relays which then provide the correct polarity to the points motors.
(https://i.ibb.co/7Xmyqkt/IMG-20200505-134130152.jpg) (https://ibb.co/7Xmyqkt)
The second jpg shows the points ayatem for controlling Lowe Point -which is basically the fiddle yard
(https://i.ibb.co/Ld7XsNQ/IMG-20200505-134232306.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Ld7XsNQ)
The last jpg shows the simple switch and relay systwm to contol the entrance to the cross lawn loop.
(https://i.ibb.co/WG5k2bh/IMG-20200505-134303798.jpg) (https://ibb.co/WG5k2bh)
This "should" all fit on a sheet of A4 polycarb....
Regards
Ralph
Being a nice ecological type of person I am now left with a toxic problem... I have (I think?) about 15 yds of sleepers to replace. Which is going to be boringly easy. No, the problem is the remains of the treated hardwood sleepers and the white metal chairs still nailed to them. I have about 7kg of toxic floor sweepings in an A3 ziplock bag.
The question is - what do I do with them now?
Regards
Ralph
Contact the council. They can advise on either a public or private hazardous waste disposal.
As Doddy says, double bag them, sealed, and take to the local council dump. They should have specialist disposal areas, but in my experience they will throw them in the landfill skip.
Sorry, but lead has been dumped in quantity for thousands of years and I don't think the tiny amount in a few chairs will make a difference to the health of the nation, or indeed of the world. There are extremely stringent rules about using lead on carriage roofs, as I know having obtained a licence to use it. By the stupid thing is there are no regulations I can find about the disposal of old lead paint from carriage roofs. Painting on new stuff you need a ventilated space, masks, double bag the brushes and take to a special dump etc etc. Dismantling an old coach involves pulling the canvas off the roof boards which disintegrates sending showers of white lead paint into the air for a considerable distance around the domestic gardens where many bodies have been found - you don't need a licence for that!
Mike
p.s, if any one is wanting to creosote, i believe it's banned now, but when i painted the fencing at parkwood, we used barratine "creocote" which is oil based and you can daub it on,splash it all over, like proper creosote. best price was on amazon £14.00 ish, ash
Creocote... I used several cans of that about 6 years ago and got it from Wickes.
I don't remember paying as much as that for it (but it was a while ago).
I have just looked at Wickes website and a 4L can is 12 GBP.
John.
Yesterday I had 2 tubs of 'Dark Creocote' dropped off by my local hardwear store - £9.99 each.
Whitemetal chairs and hardwood sleepers; I modify them to take Peco 'G' code 250 rail and use them and the old wooden sleepers on sidings. The now 20+ year old rail being nickel silver have oxidized to a brownish black colour; looks just right for sidings.
Ian the Gauge '3' Pirate
Ok, the toxic waste has been bagged and tagged! Just when it will get transferred to waste disposal - is as yet unknown...
The next phase is to built and paint twelve sets of four aspect colour lights. This will mwan moving the bog lathe out of the kitchen and the milling machine back in to replace it. The fronts have been laser cut by MEL and I have the required surrounds and LEDS to populate them. The test device has proved visable at over 20m so there can be no mistakes. Each switch box will run from a 24 Volt 10 Ampere DC ring main. Inside the box will be the local relays and voltage regulators. How I actuate the points inrelation to the boxes I have yet to decide.
If the points motors are mounted together then the slide rails are moved by long rods and cranks. This centralises all the switching actions. If the points motors are next to the points then the slop of the cranks and rods is removed but the wiring is more distributed.
Personally I favour the whole thing being a compact installation. This is not because of the wiring - but rather I like the idea of all the cranks and levers moving as they would in the original. I will also have to open the memory tool box marked "I will never need these again" and service my wiring tools, stripper guns and heat shrink machines.
I bet they all work too!
Regards
Ralph
What really intrigus me here Ralph, is the interaction of the colour light signals vs the Radio Control system you deploy in your models.
Are you planning on using line of sight using your own eyes or do you have other forms of automated train control in mind?
Will you need another operator to operate the signalling whilxt you control the trains?
Robert
The signalling will be automatic. In theory all I should have to do when the loco arrives at the destination is press "arrived" and the system should all reset back to four green lights. Robert as to using "line of sight"... My vision is now so poor that I can just make out the greenhouse from the backdoor. Anything over 10m is just a blur.
regards
ralph
This is the start of building the "sensors". It is simply a Cliff Barker cast brass fish plate with a wire soldered to it. The
Tin soft solder contains Silver and Lead and should still hold tight in the depths of the Derbyshire winter...
(https://i.ibb.co/Y0wTwnv/IMG-20200519-104232497.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Y0wTwnv)
The system uses zero volt switching. The zero volt line (ZVL) is NOT Earth!!! Thus a 24v line can run two 12v devices in series each one seeing a 12v higher supply than its base... This the ZVL from the base of one relay is the 12v feed to the one below. The breaking of any ZVL causes the devices below to fail, or in this case: the relays to collapse to N/O.
And yes, the tools were still working well!
Regards
Ralph
After some pen scratching and slide rule work... I have ordered the main "ring main" DC power cable. This is going to be 8A rated 1mm sq "red and black". I have ordered two 50m rolls. Tap offs for the switch boxes will be via "Scotchlok" style knife connectors. But these have a Lucar 1/4" spade output rather than knifing a parallel cable.
I suppose I should start stocking up on ring ends and jumper cables?
Armed with my Mimic board I now have to find out where the signals are in the real (scale) world!!!
Regards
Ralph
After slight problems with my sight!!! I have been having to wear heavy polaroid lenses to deal with the sunlight. So far everything is either a blinding white or jet black. I have had No.5 pull a three coach rake and I can now visualise where each signal stalk will have to be. The switch bank for the control system has been bored and the main Bussbars installed.
I am going to spray the local control boxes std grey primer and then flash them over with white gloss. This should give some UV protection - he says(!)
Regards
Ralph
The neighbours obviously think that I am insane as over the past few days I have been dodging the rain and stiking a laser pointer to the base board... This is the std method that I always used when I was P.I.T. boss doing installations for cabling. I assure you that there is nothing more annoying than a 3phase feeder thats just a few centimetres "out" from the pre cut holes in the cabinets...
The positions of all the signals are now fixed at points where 150' high people can see them as well as 6' high drivers! The remaining Cobolt omega motors should arrive in two to three weeks then I start fabricating the control system and as my Son said, "Dad that's an awesome amount of relays".
Regards
Ralph
I have been dodging the rain and stapled cables to the baseboard. I have reached the point of the lift out section and taken a break for tea and biscuits!!! How I deal with the lift out section I am not sure yet. Ideally I should dig down and run conduit to the other side but that is "work" and I am lazy.... The other option is to simply stick it in a length of steel pipe and screw the pipe to the support posts.
There are two ring circuits one each for the inner and outer signal sets.
(https://i.ibb.co/Ht2RJnZ/IMG-20200615-104830467.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Ht2RJnZ)
Regards
Ralph
Three thunderstorms later and the bulk of the system external wiring is complete. The last part is "Lowe Point" which is currently under water. Not the best time to do electrical installation...
This is the main control board. As my Son said an awesome amount of DPDT relays. The left bank are power switching to the points motors. The right bank is the interlock and route setting - there are six predetermined routes, but you can set the points manually. The "diode logic" will use 1n1001. Yes part of me wants to use Copper Oxide and Lead but this is simpler(!)
(https://i.ibb.co/6yLkBTJ/IMG-20200617-133902519.jpg) (https://ibb.co/6yLkBTJ)
The second shot shows the six Vreg PCBs to feed the LEDs on the front. In the original Westinghouse system these would have been 2a3 valves, they are still available but £100's(!) These will provide the 3volt feed to the LEDs.
(https://i.ibb.co/SJR0yTF/IMG-20200617-140303869.jpg) (https://ibb.co/SJR0yTF)
There is at the moment no loop back from the signal control boxes to the control panel. I am playing with three options to do this - and there is always that moment of devine inspiration (or madness....)
Regards
Ralph
End of the day...
(https://i.ibb.co/x5DWM92/IMG-20200618-163050701.jpg) (https://ibb.co/x5DWM92)
(https://i.ibb.co/XZJzz1H/IMG-20200618-163040349.jpg) (https://ibb.co/XZJzz1H)
Regards
Ralph
Break for lunch... The rversing relays for the points motors have been wired (apart from the output leads). I have wired them so that the output is fed from the "Common" connections of the DPDT relay, with NC cross wired to NO.
The main problem is that at the moment I am burning through supplies far faster than I can get them replaced.
Some of the stuff that I am using dates back over 20years!
The "maypoles" of collected cables are now visable and these will be bolt into the bussbars. The next step is to start producing the diode logic pcbs, (ugh!)
(https://i.ibb.co/jZHhp1W/IMG-20200619-120812823.jpg) (https://ibb.co/jZHhp1W)
(https://i.ibb.co/ZxMQyWk/IMG-20200619-120756972.jpg) (https://ibb.co/ZxMQyWk)
Regards
Ralph
These are some of the part completed faceplates. They were cut by MEL. The std LED shroud just plugs through the hole. Amazingly an 8mm LED is very nearly the correct lamp size(!) Everything is working from a 12v line so the dropper resistors depend on the LED colour (see G3 wiki for correct values). The back of each socket is sealed with bath sealer, this both prevents water ingress and locks the LED in place. Where possible everything is daubed with red oxide primer and the completed assembly will be filled with "potting compound". This is a two part epoxy which should seal and lock everthing into place.
(https://i.ibb.co/N7G7Q0G/IMG-20200621-105435839.jpg) (https://ibb.co/N7G7Q0G)
(https://i.ibb.co/gFVhSqv/IMG-20200621-105410880.jpg) (https://ibb.co/gFVhSqv)
Regards
Ralph
The first hood starts to come off the reprap. As normal the SCAD files will be found on the G3 wiki. Simple maths will produce a three or two aspect. Printing time is 2hrs 38mins - stock up on the biscuits. Once all the hoods have been printed then the unions to the posts are next.
(https://i.ibb.co/KVGwPnZ/IMG-20200621-134223729.jpg) (https://ibb.co/KVGwPnZ)
Regards
Ralph
This is the first test print assembled. There is the coffin shaped top and the square on a cone base glued to it. The base has a 10mm bore printed into it but I eased it out to an exact 10mm with reamers - 0.5 mm at a time. I started off at 8.5 and then incremented until 10mm. The two ends pass the steel tube through them to help both unify and strengthen the joint.
Two down - enough for the day!
(https://i.ibb.co/pQQHHgM/IMG-20200621-200456029.jpg) (https://ibb.co/pQQHHgM)
(https://i.ibb.co/f2PQW6H/IMG-20200621-200542333.jpg) (https://ibb.co/f2PQW6H)
Regards
Ralph
After having massively increased my Vitamin D, I have reached the section end. All the points cables now terminate at a barrier block. This has annoyed the local Mistletoe Trushes. NASA employs people to keep check of the nests of the condors and storks. This is because the nesting birds have used scraps of wire to build their nests with... The nests are passed down through pairs and some of them weigh over 90Kg. My lengths of wire have attracted similar attention. You have to admire the dedication to parenthood that will cause a bird to pull a cable stapled to the baseboard and try to fly off with it - repeatedly...
Tomorrow the resupply van should arrive and I can continue.
Regards
Ralph
This is 5x7 display that will for the "theatre" panels. I got these about three years ago in preparation for this and I had a play with one of them. Unfortunately I have lost the notes that I made...
(https://i.ibb.co/2kmC66R/IMG-20200623-104444085.jpg) (https://ibb.co/2kmC66R)
Next step is to print the cases for them and figre out the pin coding required(!)
Regards
Ralph
The poles and hoods have been primered and are dangling in the sun. Later this afternoon I will dig out the matte black and start applying it. The poles are going to be mounted on 100mm steel brackets. I am going to have to bore a hole to 10mm. The base will be printed and the pole
Passed through it and epoxied. The C section Aluminium to build the other two gantries is on order, but the gantry outside the backdoor can only be looked at with laser goggles - so there is no rush there...
The final reels of wire are here and await their termination.
At the moment working outside is impossible as the pollen levels produce a dangerous work environment. Having a sneezing fit whilst holding an 80W soldering iron is a recipie for painful disaster...
Regards
Ralph
These are two of the termination blocks. These deal with all the connections to the points motors. There will be another set for the signals. There are three DC ring mains each fused at 5A that supply power to the boxes. Thus if one ring goes down then I know where to start looking(!)
(https://i.ibb.co/gVF7rtN/IMG-20200625-073447375.jpg) (https://ibb.co/gVF7rtN)
I got up at 5am this morning to get some work done and at 8am the pollen levels are dangerously high!!!
Regards
Ralph
Are you covered Ralph?
(https://i.ibb.co/c12cDQn/pollen-cartoon.jpg) (https://ibb.co/c12cDQn)
Robert given the fact that most of my nasal bones were broken and removed via schoolboy rugby the cartoon is very close to reality!!!
However I have finished the external cabling and now I am back to cutting and shutting the existing lengths to size. The shot shows the completed barrier boards, ( yes one is 600v 3 phase mains and the others "signalling")... They have to be NOS over 30 yrs old and the usage leaflets written in technical High German(!)
Needless to say I did not torque the barrier plates or the screw connnectors to the right setting...
(https://i.ibb.co/FKH0Y7w/IMG-20200626-114615183.jpg) (https://ibb.co/FKH0Y7w)
The seven core cable is "trailer cable" - rough tough and weatherproof.
Regards
Ralph
The title should now read Grr Paint!!! I have been forced to import from Holland a litre tin of Matte White exterior to paint the poles and bases. This has cost me a tenner. To put it into perspective a 150ml pot of Humbrol Matte White is around £8.50...
The remains will get used up on another project which will involve quite a bit of recycling and making storm proof.
Regards
Ralph
Ok... I have started final assembly of the signal posts. Despite planning everthing went wrong!!! The simple task of joining the four wires plus grounding sheath should have presented no problems. Rather than use standard four core signal cable I used "proper" heavy duty four core control cable.
The melting point of PLA is 200°C. The melting point of 60/40 Savbit is about 210°C... The amount of heat conducted by 5A rated Silver jacketed Copper is enough to "cause problems"... I have begun printing its replacement. The solution was to hang everything in a continuous breeze. The potting compound was as vile as I remember.
The front plate was held in place with rubber bands and the compound set entombing the wiring.
(https://i.ibb.co/1vZpkGK/IMG-20200709-104253440.jpg) (https://ibb.co/1vZpkGK)
The Red is about right.
The Green looks too blue(?) eventjough the wave number is correct. It could just be me - but my eyesight is getting worse.
The single Yellow is slightly dimmer when compared to the double Yellow.
But they are visible at over 10m(!)
Regards
Ralph
I have noticed that some green aspects sometimes look blueish-it happens with road traffic lights as well. Maybe something to do with the lens layout and the way the light is refracted, depending on the viewer's relationship with the beam? Or atmospherics?
John
Or in my case, a combination of Glaucoma and Macular Degeneration?!?!??! It could also be a voltage contaminant of the led -poor quality leds can produce other frequency multiples and I admit these were cheap even for eBay!!!
regards
ralph
Red light Green light flashing through the dark night pounding through the pouring rain, I gotta see trains!!!
(https://i.ibb.co/CH0ghXK/IMG-20200712-083025753.jpg) (https://ibb.co/CH0ghXK)
Regards
Ralph
Could you post a diagram of your tracks sometime-I see photos of parts of it, a station here, a junction there, but cannot put it all together.
Thanks
John
As Requested.
(https://i.ibb.co/FDxv7sg/02-Intro-Plan.jpg) (https://ibb.co/FDxv7sg)
regards
ralph
Ok, first signal module has been screwed to the underside of the trackbed. It is based on IBM "Token Ring" technique.
Eack module has a ring in and ring out connection. Each box listens to the preceding one and passes its status onto the next box.
(https://i.ibb.co/ZBCQ6df/IMG-20200712-144056592.jpg) (https://ibb.co/ZBCQ6df)
(https://i.ibb.co/yhRwYJ9/IMG-20200712-144238321.jpg) (https://ibb.co/yhRwYJ9)
Regards
Ralph
The boxes of Cobolt points motors have arrived and I have to make the last section of base board to connect the third line to the "drag strip". I "think" I have enough spare timbers to do this, but it will be out with the tape measure tomorrow... The reprap is nearly dying of exhaustion but it is going to have to print covers for the Cobolt motors. But first I have to design them!!!
Regards
Ralph
The last parts have some off the reprap. These are the feathers that indicate route changes. The five white LEDs for each feather are on order -as are the PURPLE LEDs... Only in two places in the entire expanse of the internet did I get confirmation of a boyhood memory! Purple lights were used to indicate "Limit of Shunt" zones. The only problem I have now is the VERY high (relatively) voltage needed to strike a purple LED. Normally off a 12V line I would string the LEDS is series and the voltage drop between the total number of LEDs would light them all. Here however I am going to have to put a blocking resistor after each LED from the 12 V line to Earth. And there isn't that much room in the feather!!!
regards
ralph
After "words" due to my new reel of solder... The white and flashing purple LEDs have been sunk into the holders and then wired in series. They have been stuck to the tops of the 4aspect hoods with some very amusing results!!!
This is the main signal to the Brassica station. I personally think it looks like a Dalek celebrating having made the winning goal(!)
(https://i.ibb.co/VtZrHBW/IMG-20200825-130353856.jpg) (https://ibb.co/VtZrHBW)
The SCAD files will be uploaded to the Wiki.
Regards
Ralph
The last prder for baseboard decking has been placed and the last lengths of Aluminium angle will arrive next week. I then have six weeks to peoduce something with...
Regards
Ralph
Hurray!!!! Ok I have been busy constructing track bed, track and signal installing.
(https://i.ibb.co/b6SWGvn/IMG-20200915-134559097.jpg) (https://ibb.co/b6SWGvn)
It is going to be lifted and laid again once I have some more hot melt felt and probably more LPG... This at real world size is a flange screamingly tight curve but the Gauge Widened track should make it workable(!)
This is the main gantry in front of Brassica. It jas tje three outbound lines and one inbound. The main Dalek has indicator feathers and the rear Dalek has a flashing purple feather to show when shunting is allowed
(https://i.ibb.co/R9d0r0C/IMG-20200918-132509112.jpg) (https://ibb.co/R9d0r0C)
I have one more gantry to make from angle then playing with the logic diodes and relays to produce the required
AND, OR, XOR and NOT gates.
I hope I can aquire an assistant for testing.
Regards
Ralph
The last of the Ikea Glys boxes have screwed to the trackbed. These contain four DPDT relays and three din 7-270 sockets.
The horrible job of checking the "ring tags" are correct -now has to be done. As a reminder the system is based on "Token Ring". Thus each box has a ring in and ring out din socket, what would be the computer is replaced by the four aspect signal.
(https://i.ibb.co/yQc8njd/IMG-20200919-104149824.jpg) (https://ibb.co/yQc8njd)
(https://i.ibb.co/qRcqLPy/IMG-20200919-104154625.jpg) (https://ibb.co/qRcqLPy)
Time for tea and gingernuts!
Regards
Ralph
Quote from: cabbage on Sep 18 2020 17:31TV
I have one more gantry to make from angle then playing with the logic diodes and relays to produce the required
AND, OR, XOR and NOT gates.
I hope I can aquire an assistant for testing.
Regards
Ralph
Ralph, I wonder if you can post on here an overview of what your signalling system is intended to do, eg whether it will sound an alarm if SPAD, the era and region it models, if linked to points control etc? This will be particularly helpful if I am that assistant!
Tim, sorry but the assistant is *not* you. I am owed several favours by another "Tim". Who happens to lecture for Messrs Westinghouse. The system is "modern" version of the Westinghouse type "L" system. There is no audible alam sounder(!) Please remember that I am deaf.
The main mimic board sets one of six routes.
The diode logic network on the mimic board then triggers the main power relays to energise the PAIRS of points.
The local control boxes check for the prescence of a loco via axle track conduction i.e. Zero Volt line.
The points move.
Interlocking from the local control boxes selects the correct colour option and sends the previous colour option to the preceeding local control box.
As to the region - the answer is anywhere. Type "L" was sold worldwide and it is the one I grew up on. In the case of my layout block control is a variable distance.
The last set of ring tags have been fixed - now it is down to meter work. And for that - there is nothing to beat a type "7" AVO...
Regards
Ralph
Having spent a highly unenjoyable day circuit testing, I have found that all the leads "buzz out" perfectly. However something has gone wrong with the numbering(?)
I number 0-9 and some of the leads seem to have been numbered 1-10. I think I know the reason for this and I have ordered more ring tags... Thus at the moment we have (0) at one end of the cable and (1) at the other. Following std cabling technique says that even numbered cables are (+), you can see where the problems begin...
There are more cables using 1-10 than 0-9 so I will have to change over to 1-10. Since only one of the four helpers is studying computing I suppose I shouldn't complain(!)
But I do have to say all the colour rainbow coding is totally correct.
Regards
Ralph
This is the loco detection trap. As you can see there is a short length of track insulated from each end. The plastic fish plates have been replaced with the Copper ones. Each fish plate has a flying lead Silver soldered to it. Why Silver solder? Because it gets so cold here in the winter that the Tin changes phase and the joint would crumble - hence the reason all the external electricals are crimped or screwed...
You do *not* want to know the cost of "electrical" Silver solder!!!
(https://i.ibb.co/jWY2h6L/IMG-20200922-104811219.jpg) (https://ibb.co/jWY2h6L)
This is a close up of the end of the trap.
(https://i.ibb.co/Wxn8fcD/IMG-20200922-104815655.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Wxn8fcD)
Time for tea and toasted teacakes!
Regards
Ralph
Yesterday was spent in the kitchen with a hot soldering iron and A4 sheets my (to others) indecipherable scribble. But after a few hundred crimp clicks and cutter snaps I have reached the point where I have a nearly functional remote power points system.
I am using the Cobolt points motors, but due to Covid I was only able to source a six box of Omega and six box of IP types. This does not matter as both will work via reversing the DC input lines. More stuff should arrive in the post today and I should be able to bring the number of "Power Points" (!) from four to eleven.
(https://i.ibb.co/mHJqw3B/IMG-20200923-143306932.jpg) (https://ibb.co/mHJqw3B)
Regards
Ralph
We begin to approach *ON*... The 24 lines from the Mimic board to the distribution hub are now 'in'. The route setting interlock is now on hold as I have run out of relay bases, I need 3 more (5 more on order from eBay).
At the moment it can only "remember" routes 1 and 2.
I am amazed at the subtlety of the original Edwardian design. It is brute force latching relays and dual pole switches but the modules link up sort out the routes and point movement required.
To give you an example of how it functions.
If you press the on button on a piller drill no matter how many times you press it -it still remains on. This is a "memory" function.
You switch on and off the stair lights at either end of the staircase. This is an "either / or" function.
Two switches in series is an "and" function.
Ok it has less processing power than a modern room thermostat - but I am in awe of the original 1910 design team.
Regards
Ralph
Having spent two days being partially deep frozen... The points motors are being screwed to their battens. Giving hopefully a direct pull at the tiebar. The spring clip connections on the base of the motor have been taken off to a "choc block" which makes life a lot easier for me.
The remaining four motors will be fitted after some "topiary" or forestry work to enable me to get at them!!!
This shows the points motor with the flying leads and the choc block. Only one of the three internal switches on the points motor is being used. The first is SPST for indicator LEDs, and the second and third are SPST wired either / or but rated at 3A. I have used only switch three.
(https://i.ibb.co/QcR6R1y/IMG-20200927-115812630.jpg) (https://ibb.co/QcR6R1y)
This shot shows the module screwed to the batten and wired in.
(https://i.ibb.co/qBW3RSY/IMG-20200927-115839029.jpg) (https://ibb.co/qBW3RSY)
The knots are used to identify the raw cable. I have used conventional colour codes to identify the functions.
Regards
Ralph
Due to required contortionist movements the remaining three points motors took over and hour and a half each to install.
Windchill factor was also a problem....
Now the hard part begins(!) The last three relays have been screwed down and the first of the diode logic board installed. To my great delight, if asked, it operates the required points to set that route. But, as yet, it doesn't reset...
The logic side of the system is actually rather simple if you have read the text above. The three chains terminate on three conditions: x AND y , x <> y , x NOT y.
At this Dr Brades leaves the room and the friendly neighborhood cabbage returns!!!
This is the current (!) State of play.
(https://i.ibb.co/D4JBrB3/IMG-20200928-141838414.jpg) (https://ibb.co/D4JBrB3)
Regards
Ralph
I "think" that I am about one week from "ON". The main problem is keeping track of each module as I link it in. The simple hook up wires are going to have to give way to pukkha buss bars and that means making them...
The logic system works but the row of fifteen DPDT relays takes a little getting used to! Holding the power lead on that part of the circuit when in switching mode can make your fingers "tingle"(!)
The string lights will have to wait as no-one seems to have made the chip that I was planning on using this millenium.
(So much for the updayed and improved 2nd edition).
However a friend in the USofA is researching a moden chip for me.
Tomorro is two days of storm, with nothing else to do I can move apace.
Regards
Ralph
One half of the logic switching is "in" and I feel confident that I can start ordering power cable. Working with power cable is a different thing though! The crimp gun is comming out of hibernation, it is amazing the amount of stuff you gather over the decades...
My normal little set of crimp pliers will work on the switching connections, this baby uses 5 BAR compressed air. It was used for making "gas tight" connections. The force will flatten the Copper and Brass connectors into a unified space free union.
I am told the noise is terrifying (?)
Regards
Ralph
*ON*
The PSU has been connected to the board, the variable Vregs tuned to about 3Volts after a mug of tea and a couple of cheese and chuntney doorstops I will begin linking the output lines to the main buss bar.
Thereafter it is back to the graph paper and doodle the logic diodes required to light the correct routes. These are White and Blue. One aspect is that the LEDs are themselves diodes and thus add their own preferred voltages...
But, this is what the board looked like at 6pm last night when I gave up!
(https://i.ibb.co/w6P0bd6/IMG-20201005-155826977.jpg) (https://ibb.co/w6P0bd6)
It may look like a psychdelic rats nest but everything is quite logical and almost self documenting.
Regards
Ralph
One of the most memorable photos at Bletchley Park is one of Wrens working the Colossus machines dressed solely in chemise and shorts. Strung between the frames of the Colossus machines are lengths of washing line on which articles of clothing are drying...
Having just mapped out the diode matrix for the string lights, viz: 16+16+36+36+36 that would have been a lot of waste heat from the 2a3 switching triodes that they used.
But solder spats and burns besides - I am getting there!!!
Regards
Ralph
Wrens in shorts and chemise is an infinitely better mental image than a psychedelic rat's nest!
John
Having spent most of the weekend going blind from trying read colour code bands... I feel that I am now in a position to commence final wiring of the route setting system.
The susyem uses whote LEDs to show the four routes out of Brassica to Lowe point. It then uses blue LEDs to show the three routes back to Brassica. However whote and blue LEDs have different strike voltages...
The solution is to work from a known fixed voltage and use dropper resistors soldered to the cathode of each LED.
So far so good!
Regards
Ralph
Taking a break from the soldering iron I ventured outside to the part of my track in the area of the garden called the windtunnel... I tried out the three points motors there and to my delight they work - however....
The somewhat flimsy steel bendy wires simply bent like rubberunder the force required to move the tie bar assembly.
I made a make-do test using a length of 2mm silver steel rod and that didn't bend and the tie bar moves!
More rod is on order... But if the board works the points should work!!! I will admit to attaching an orange clothes peg to the end of the wire so that I could see it move.
Regards
Ralph
The logic system is in, the leds are in, now to fault find... At the GTG at the weekend it proved that the longest length of wiring worked and the points moved across. Given a couple of good dry days the points motors that need it will have the flimsy spring steel wire replaced with 2mm silver steel rod.
Then there will be some painfully cold days checking over the wiring feeds to the local control boxes for the signal lights. Lying on my back to get at them was OK in the summer...
Regards
Ralph
Having survived the week long hangover that is "changing the clocks" I think my system is back in tune with itself. Trying to solder when all you want to do is fall asleep is slight dangerous(!) I have got some of thw route lights connected but the problem is now down to the seven Vregs that produce the 3Volt lines to each battery of LEDs on the mimic board.
The blue LEDs light at 2.6V the white ones at 2.8V. because the number of blue and white LEDS is different for each route the draw on each Vreg the brightness varies(!) This means twiddle and tweak on the multiple turn pots on each Vreg. (ugh!)
Still there is nothing else to do but watch the rain...
Regards
Ralph
Ralph,
I have been following the CPR track relaying and signalling saga with some interest and a lot of admiration for fortitude in the face of adverse metrological and other conditions. It was like one of those TV programmes where the narrator says "but will the signals light on the get together day?". OK, the gtg has come and gone-any pics?
Best,
John
Well after a massive cascade Vreg failure which removed all the working LEDs from the mimic board. I am pleased to announce that next week should see the completion of the board and I can concentrate on the external connectors -all ninety six of them....
regards
ralph
After having to take a few days off the building of the mimic board because it fealt like my eyes were bleeding from the effort of trying to read 1/4w resistors...
I have been programming some new parts for the railway. I am going to construct a false OHL system based on British and Swiss methods. The straights are British and the curves are Swiss.
This is because the UK method of turning a corner would not survive even a moderate breeze here. The "visual aspect" is of a 1922 Pierson Report 1500V and 660V DC traction however none of it will work!!!
There will be a "Rotator house" to convert the AC to DC and supply it to the OHL and 3rd rail. I have been given a xerox of a genuine rotator and switch garden from Blackburn Starling - which I will attempt to use(!) The electrics as such will be from blue LEDs, which will flicker and flash.
And yes... The Rotator will have the makers plate:
ANGUS YOUNG &CO.
Regards
Ralph
Ok before the eyes go again... Here is the mimic board showing route one. White LEDs are outward and Blue LEDs are return.
(https://i.ibb.co/Qm8XNRv/IMG-20210128-145926717.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Qm8XNRv)
I now await the next delivery of LED holders...
Regards
Ralph
Yesterday "The Apprentice and I" completed the first stage of power switching. The routes 1-7 now self isolate and power the points to be open or closed. We didn't have that much time for testing having to make and disconnect 48 screw barriers takes time(!)
The next stage will be to wire in the quick connect Molex unions. These Molex are 12 way ex IBM from the 1990's. These come from the time when "Molex connectors were real Molex connectors!"
As in all things you have to design for expansion, so there is room for route 8 thereafter I can do nothing....
Some people have noted the seemingly strange array that are the route setting switches. Think of it like this:
1-1-1-1-1
1-0-0-0-0
1-8-8-8-8
Only the last four digits are changable. If you select route 1 the number generated is 10001 route 2 generates 11001 but route three generates18000. The 8 in the number tells the system that it is a return route so it lights the blue leds.
This is about all I can do until after the storms... Then it will floundering in the mud connecting up the "local" signalling system.
Regards
Ralph
had you also modified the point rodding from the motors ? i recall that was on the to do list ?
We have done six of the eleven link rods. At the moment the house is shaking under the gale blasts and the rain is moving sideways across the windowpanes.
I have to go out and get my Covid #2 vaccination...
Regards
Ralph
The system is now at the point(!) where the sign Danger Engineers Testing is raised... The test cables have been removed and the permanent cables, made of "trailer cable" have been spliced in and the 24way ex IBM Molex connectors fitted.
Now we are ready to run a test loco over the trackwork sometime next week. This will probably be "No.5" as she is my most docile of locos and then with "Maude" who most definitely isn't.
Regards
Ralph
This is a "totem pole" for the signalling system. It has four layers, green, red, yellow, and double yellow. As the system climbs the totem pole each layer below it is shut off. The pole then sends its status to the preceding pole which either elevates or lowers the status of its totem.
(https://i.ibb.co/9tg1XwK/IMG-20210421-132505389.jpg) (https://ibb.co/9tg1XwK)
Yes it looks a mess. But cable colours are standard pairs. Red & Black, Blue & Yellow, Purple & Green. Thwre are sixteen "totem poles" required and I have built three of tjem so far! I am averaging about one per day, but they eat through my stock of supplies.
Regards
Ralph
There is now only one to build... I have a huge mental problem with the fact that I like to do things ONCE... Doing the same thing sixteen times has been "dangerous" to anybody locally!!!
But Monday should see me venture out with my stapler and cable reel to begin the interlink between the totems. Diode logic will allow me to send four "states" through two wires, hence the blue and yellow tag leads from the totem boxes.
Time for lunch and the last totem pole!
Regards
Ralph
All totem poles are now complete. The massive change in the weather means that they are still in the kitchen... This means I am going blind soldering up the thirty two DIN7-270 plugs to their distribution points. People have asked
"Why DIN plugs?"
They were originally designed for control wiring and still serve this purpose well. The main problem I have at the moment are the cables. I have used standard EU colour coding but does this really matter?
Red is positve DC
Black is negative DC
Yellow is EITHER positive or negative DC
Blue is EITHER positive or negative DC but the opposite polarity to Yellow.
Violet carries "trigger pulses" of some form.
PURE GREEN is the Zero Volt Line (zvl) and is NOT EARTH.
Green Yellow is EARTH.
The "train detection" system uses the fact that the axles short out the capacitor formed by two insulated lengths of rail the voltage (+/- 10mV) measured by the zvl alters. This triggers a transistor switch.
More fun with veroboard....
Regards
Ralph
With luck ( he says !) "Local Intelligence" will be working for the GTG on Saturday. The boxes have a diode network that corrolates to the local set of points, thus Green and Red. "Remote Intelligence" is provided by the two cables that link the boxes. Given the number of din7-270 plugs that have to wired this is likely to be operating on August. The madness of wiring that is the decision matrix for the approach to Brassica is comming along well. Ok it doesn't know what lights it should display but it does know which lights it SHOULDN'T display -which is half the battle.
Today the last part of the "ring main" will be installed and we will have power to all the boxes.
Regards
Ralph
After several hours of severe "creeping damp" from sitting on the wet lawn we announce that only "the wind tunnel" is without some form of signalling. Some of the large LEDs have failed and will require replacing. Surprisingly the white "super bright" LEDs are very hard to see as their beam is very directional. Opinion is that we crack the cans and replace them with diffuse lenses. Although personally I think that replacing one of the white LEDs with a flashing yellow would render it more noticable!
Sunday will probably see me making blue and yellow cabled DIN7s... On reflection -would I have done it differently? The answer to that is yes. I should have gone with my initial thoughts and used XLR rather than DIN.
Regards
Ralph
My first batch of cheap imported signal heads are on their way . . .
The lens positions will need to be moved around from road to railway order, though.
(https://i.ibb.co/BCJwGNw/s-l1600.jpg) (https://ibb.co/BCJwGNw)
That looks rather good! Could I enquire where from and how much? I feel a bit of subtle modifying coming on.
Best,
John
Could I enquire where from and how much?
China via eBay, £5.72 each £0 P+P
I only mentioned these as Ralph is running live trains and the larger scale of the lenses would help with those who have relatively poor eyesight and whom cannot see small LEDs in the daylight.
They are NOT TO SCALE for GAUGE 3.
More suited for 5" and 71/4" gauges if scale is an issue.
Yes, I had a look, and they are way too big, although really good value for money.
Back to the drawing board and the laser!
John
At the GTG wr fot some of the signals working. But had strange problems with the Red and Green LEDs. These are std 8mm diffused running at 20mA / 12 volts. The ones that would have notmally been "on" most of the time - faded... I put this down to the age of the LEDs. But I was wrong! The problem was the "ballast" resitor from the LED. This was a 1/4W 5% MOx . The amount of usage on it was frying the resistor!!!
Stuck in a black hood on a sunny afternoon as the output of a class "A" circuit was too much. So, I have started to replace them with 1W Carbons and boring a couple of vent holes at the base and apex of the hood.
And best of all some people did obey the left hand running!
Regards
Ralph