The Forum for Gauge 3 Model Trains

In the Workshop : Questions, Answers and Help => Help Required => Topic started by: John Candy on Jul 22 2010 23:09

Title: Midland 0-6-0s......which side has leading crank?
Post by: John Candy on Jul 22 2010 23:09
The GRS kit for the MR Johnson 2F states in the instructions that the LEFT hand coupling rod crank leads when assembling the wheel sets.

I presume they mean LHS when looking forward from the cab.
I had always thought that the RHS leads on Midland locos.

The GA drawings in Midland Locomotives Vol.4 (Essery / Jenkinson) are not clear but photos. appear not to support the LHS.

Anyone able to confirm, please?

John.
Title: Re: Midland 0-6-0s......which side has leading crank?
Post by: cabbage on Jul 23 2010 07:41
Build the kit as specified in the instructions. The Litchurch Lane works would never have bothered which side was leading -they would have just assembled it as per the instructions. As far as the erecting shop was concerned it wasn't their job to make it work....

regards

ralph
Title: Re: Midland 0-6-0s......which side has leading crank?
Post by: Andy B on Jul 23 2010 08:41
Ralph,

You're quite correct that Litchurch Lane wouldn't have bothered which side of a loco was leading, as we only ever built carriages and wagons here  ::) (well, OK, we built containers, lorries and all sorts of other stuff too, but never locos!)

The loco works was the other side of London Road.

John - try asking Alan Marsden as he spent some time at 'the Loco' as part of his training.
Do you have the Midland Engines books by Summerson? If not I'll have a look in my copies to see if there is any info.
I would have said RH leading too .....

Andy
Title: Re: Midland 0-6-0s......which side has leading crank?
Post by: cabbage on Jul 23 2010 17:35
So, that's where they hid all the glass hammers then???

regards

ralph
Title: Re: Midland 0-6-0s......which side has leading crank?
Post by: John Candy on Jul 25 2010 20:11
Andy,
I have for present assembled with the RH crank leading and hope to have loco finished in time for Alan's GTG in September.
If it should turn out that the LH crank leads (which I very much doubt), it will be an easy task to re-quarter the Slaters wheels.

I don't have the Summerson book (mine is "An Illustrated Review of Midland Locomotives, Vol.4", Wild Swan) and if it does shed any light on the matter, I shall be interested to hear.

Regards,
John.

Title: Re: Midland 0-6-0s......which side has leading crank?
Post by: Ted Sadler on Jul 26 2010 07:14
I have a photo of 2F 3175 at Toton that appears to show the RH crank leading. Regards, Ted
Title: Re: Midland 0-6-0s......which side has leading crank?
Post by: John Candy on Jul 26 2010 07:34
Thanks Ted.

I think it is a case of lack of research by the author of the GRS instructions......but as with many kits, that is the least of the problems!

Regards,
John.
Title: Re: Midland 0-6-0s......which side has leading crank?
Post by: Andy B on Jul 26 2010 19:40
John,

There are several pictures in 'Midland Railway Locomotives' vol.4 (Stephen Summerson, pub Irwell Press) showing class 2 and class 3 locos with plenty of light showing through the underframes - all clearly show the RHS having the leading crank.

Andy
Title: Re: Midland 0-6-0s......which side has leading crank?
Post by: John Candy on Jul 27 2010 07:26
Thanks Andy.

That makes three of us who have found no evidence of LH and two with positive evidence of RH, so I think we can safely say that GRS have got it wrong!
I wonder how many 2Fs are running around with incorrect quartering?
Will have to take a look at the Midland crimson liveried example which seems to be a "regular" on the AGM "Bring & Buy" stall (courtesy of Wagon & Carriage Works).

Not the only problem with the kit which is supposed to be of an "M" class 2F.
I have had to make a number of modifications including making a new smokebox door (too large....looks like it was made to fit the 4F) and new loco brake hangers/blocks which are of a type superseded by the time the "M" class appeared (presumably a case of GRS making use of the 1F 0-6-0T parts).

A little more care on the part of the kit designer would have produced a far better result.

Regards,
John.