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You send me the list and I'll stick it on the Website Mike!   :-)

Regards,

IanT
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John,

I had not looked at the N2.5GA website recently and you are right - the list of designs there is excellent, and many with outline drawings too.  I guess what I would love to see is a Gauge 3 equivalent - i.e. commercial model engines.  John Buxton wrote something in the G3S Newsletter maybe ten years ago, but something updated, illustrated and accessible on the website would be really useful.

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Help Required / Re: L&Y pug wheels diameter
« Last Post by IanT on Yesterday at 08:37:45 PM »
I've had a look at the partial (as it turns out) drawings I have and they give the wheel diameter as 3ft & 3/8th" (allows a bit of wear  :) ) - which scales at 22.6 to 41mm (well 40.88 to be pedantic). The width of the tyre is 5.7" which scales to 6.42mm (but I'd simply use the G3S standard here at 6.8mm).

Barry's L&Y book is an excellent source of L&Y locomotive information - certainly the best I'm aware of. However, it covers a lot of engines and the 'Pug' description only runs to six pages - but there are side and sectional drawings that could probably be enlarged for modelling use. Another good source of Pug photos is 'Locomotives Illustrated No 122' - which has six pages of L&Y Pug photos (there are other variants of "Pugs" from all four grouping companies covered). Of course the Internet is also a wonderful photo resource too...

I've remembered that the kind soul who copied the drawings (motion plate area) for me was the late Dave Lowe - but of course Barry Lane is a member of G3S and might well have access to further L&Y Pug detail if you contact him.

I hope this helps - even if you are only "loosely" baseing your model on the L&Y Pug...     ;)

Regards,

IanT 
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Other Topics / Re: How to fit wheels
« Last Post by IanT on Yesterday at 05:33:59 PM »
Loctite 603 will certainly bond cast iron to steel but the joint won't be quite as strong as a steel to steel bond (same goes for brass). However, it should still be good enough for your purposes Ralph. Your "slide in " fit may be the problem - and of course both parts need to be extremely clean (e.g. no grease, oil, cutting fluid etc).

The "cure time" is a function of substrate (what you are bonding), the bond gap, ambient temperature and whether activator has been used. If the Loctite is "rubbery" it suggests to me too much gap or possibly some form of contaminant as Loctite 603 needs the exclusion of air to set properly. Loctite Activator (7471) can be used to set 603 quickly (and apparently can also help set 'over-sized' bond gaps but I've not tried it myself [yet]).

Not knowing the 'context' of your model's axle/wheels it's difficult to suggest a fix - if it's a simple wagon/bogie type axle for instance - I'd suggest making new axles from slightly larger material (easier than enlarging the wheel bore accurately) but I suspect you are doing something a bit more complex.

Regards,

IanT
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Other Topics / Re: How to fit wheels
« Last Post by cabbage on Yesterday at 02:07:51 PM »
The fit is a "slide in". The wheel sits "normal" to the axle but it has no shoulder on the axle  to rest against. What happens with a steel wheel to steel axle is there is just enough gap to get the compound around the hole then it sets solid in about ten seconds. Here the wheel does not grip the axle and I can push it longitudinally along the axle.  The compound expiry date is 2020.

I have a epoxy glue that will stick stainless steel together, when it works perfectly -it is lovely. However getting the set joint apart to correct a mistake requires a MAPP torch!

regards

ralph
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Other Topics / Re: How to fit wheels
« Last Post by Peaky 556 on Yesterday at 01:29:43 PM »
Ralph,
I have not had to quarter wheels but my standard method is that promoted by the late Dave Lowe, ie machine both parts to a very close sliding or light interference fit, using a shoulder on the shaft to define correct B2B, centre pop the journal lightly at three roughly equally spaced points, then press on the wheel. 
It’s simple and effective, and even if you need to remove a wheel, just lightly centre-pop again to give a tiny distortion to the shaft surface.
With enough effort you will be able to twist one wheel relative to the other for fine adjustment, and hopefully it would stay in that position.  I think this would all be ok with an electric model, maybe not with a live steamer and the impulsive forces.
Good luck,
Tim
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Other Topics / Re: How to fit wheels
« Last Post by Spitfire2865 on Yesterday at 12:33:05 PM »
What kind of fit do you have between them? Is it a tight pressfit or slightly loose?
If loose, possibly turn up a plastic bushing to make the sacrificial mating element?
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Other Topics / How to fit wheels
« Last Post by cabbage on Yesterday at 11:36:39 AM »
Help! This is the first time that I have attempted to fix a cast iron wheel to a steel axle as I usually make steel wheels. My standard technique of using green loctite does noy seem to want to work. The joint is "rubbery" and not rigid. My next attempt will be to use epoxy...

What are people doing to fix their wheels?

Regards

Ralph
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Help Required / Re: L&Y pug wheels diameter
« Last Post by LankyTank on August 17, 2018, 04:26:32 PM »
Wheels - 3ft diameter, disc.

Width over footplate - 7ft 6inch

Somewhere, I've also got copies of the Pug drawings. Had them for so long, can't remember where they are.

There's the guy up in Northallerton (?) who's been advertising Pug drawings in the N/L.

Or beg/borrow/steal a copy of B C Lane's book Lancashire & Yorkshire Locomotives (he's also a member of the G3S)

HTH
Barry

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Help Required / Re: L&Y pug wheels diameter
« Last Post by hornbeam on August 17, 2018, 04:20:52 PM »
Thanks Ian, most kind.
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