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After short break, work has restarted on adding the final details.

Tank Stays : As mentioned in an earlier post, the stays provided with the kit are only suitable for the Belpaire  (G5 boiler) rebuilds, which the kit does not provide for!

Using 4mm wide brass strip I cut four 9mm lengths and eight 3mm lengths  and soldered them as shown in the photos. Note that the stays are in different locations to those fitted to the Belpaire rebuilds. Measured from the front of the tanks, they are centred at 25.25mm and 79.25mm.

Lubricators
: Those for the centre driving wheel bearings are located on the tank tops between the tank fillers and the boiler, centred over the driving axle. These I filed from brass bar. They are 8mm wide, 4mm in height and 1/8th inch deep (sorry about the mixed units but the brass bar was Imperial size). The filler "lid" is angled towards the front.

Water Tank Control Valves : These were made using wire and tube for the valve stem/flange and a press stud "popper" for the wheel! Position is 10.75mm from cab front and inset 9mm from tank edge.

Next task will be to solder the beading to the cab side openings and tank/bunker tops.















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Radio Control / Timpdon Electronics 'GigaRad' Transmitter
« Last Post by blagdon on Yesterday at 10:48:04 PM »
Does anyone have any experience in using a Timpdon Electronics 'GigaRad' Transmitter?

One has been supplied with a 16mm 'Armoured' Simplex I obtained for my quarry feeder line; I am wondering about using the same equipment for a GWR 'Flying Banana.

Ian the Gauge '3' Pirate
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Help Required / Re: Sticking Track to Concrete
« Last Post by Peaky 556 on Yesterday at 12:26:57 PM »
Andy,
Thanks for the summary.
Regarding spot fixing, this is more or less what I am doing, but rather than individual spots I am running the adhesive bead along the full length of the underside beneath the rails, following the plastic sleeper spacers that GRS track employs.
Regarding the use of SBR, I have been in touch with Ted, who informs me that he originally used the SBR method, but disadvantages included a need for it to set above 20 deg C, that it flooded out milky white liquid for weeks after laying, that it needed re-doing every few years, and that it was not waterproof such that the base was always damp, encouraging fungi.  I am trying to get Ted to write an article on ballasting in general and specifically his new and much improved approach using diluted laminating resin.
My personal approach to ballasting is to use bird grit mixed with cement, which I hope will keep the whole business solid!  Time will tell...
Cheers, Tim
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For Sale / Cliff Barker 1.5m turnout needed
« Last Post by Geoff Nicholls on Yesterday at 12:24:38 PM »
I have a Cliff Barker 3m Y turnout, in unused condition, but need a left Hand 1.5 turnout. Does anyone have one, and is prepared to do a straight swap?
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Help Required / Re: Sticking Track to Concrete
« Last Post by Andy B on Yesterday at 10:22:33 AM »
Hi Tim,
One of the Western Thunder forum members has built a 1/32 outdoor line, using Cliff Barker track. He has used bonding rather than pinning.
Thread here - http://www.westernthunder.co.uk/index.php?threads/launceston-road.104/ (it runs to 80 pages...)

Here is his method:
"I have latterly being laying it "spot fixing" it with epoxy, the five minute stuff you can buy in sensibly sized bottles from Eileen's et al.
I do this in order to set up correct (hopefully) alignment, level and "top" of the rails, lots of examples of how this doesn't always work back up the thread.
What is really fixing the track though is not the epoxy, but the Ballast that I then add. This is put on dry, shaped, wetted and then flooded with SBR.
I cannot recommend this method highly enough, it makes for a phenomenally robust and permanent formation and looks great, it also helps keeping the track clean as detritus can't get stuck between the sleepers."

Andy
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Help Required / Re: Sticking Track to Concrete
« Last Post by Peaky 556 on October 15, 2017, 07:54:15 PM »
Bob, I'm using adhesive from a mastic gun as this appears to be a far simpler way (if it works) than insetting timber battens into the concrete.  Or rather that ship has sailed long ago and the concrete has no battens!
Ralph, I think tiling grout could have worked, but I'm guessing it would have been a more "brittle" joint that would be easy to disrupt when attaching new track to the bit already grouted down.  Anyway, I'm not going there either, as I think several of the mastic systems are pretty good.
General update is that another has failed the tests, namely NEMESIS GRIP AND GRAB.  There are three that seem ok, being EVOSTICK STICKS LIKE 'POO'; TITEBOND SF and PURAFLEX 40...
I'm far too impatient and have now ballasted over a lot of the track already laid.  Life is too short!  If the adhesive wasn't that great and some of the track was lifting, I've just ballasted over and crossed my fingers that the ballast, when set, will hold it all solid enough to walk on. 
I'm laying track down the cutting featured in the Newsletter, and this will only have occasional footfall.  As I work towards the driveway crossing the adhesives will be better through natural selection.  By the time I get to the driveway I should have a pretty good idea of what works, and what's more, the ballast here will effectively be solid concrete with aluminium tramlining.  Roll on this Indian Summer!
Regards, Tim
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Help Required / Re: Sticking Track to Concrete
« Last Post by cabbage on October 15, 2017, 11:10:03 AM »
Tim,
I will confess to having sucked a few sherbet dabs - but what about timing grout?

Regards

Ralph
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Help Required / Re: Sticking Track to Concrete
« Last Post by Doddy on October 15, 2017, 09:24:46 AM »
Travelling the country one gets to see all sorts of fixings used with concrete track, I see your breaking new ground with adhesives though.

Typically I see wooden battens inserted into the concrete, either set into the ground or where concrete beams and arches have been built.

The tracks sleepers are then screwed into the wood battens to secure track alignment and to prevent movement across the concrete beams.

A similar design is used for where the track is at ground level. The wooden battens being inserted into the concrete every few feet or so.

NB: Although these pictures show 5" track, the 'inserted batten' system is also used for 2 1/2" gauge raised and track level installations.
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Help Required / Re: Sticking Track to Concrete
« Last Post by Peaky 556 on October 14, 2017, 10:24:43 PM »
Another poor performer (in this particular combination of materials and circumstances, I wish for no litigation!), is Unibond Megagrip Plus.  Yes doesn't the name sound wonderful, but it's just another one that lifts off the concrete without any provocation.  Interestingly, and against all predictions, bond to the polypropylene sleepers has been no problem so far, but it is helped by the hollow underside that engages to a depth of 4 or 5 mm. 
Products still in contention are NEMESIS GRIP & GRAB, TITEBOND SF CONSTRUCTION, and PURAFLEX 40, the last one being a PU compound.  The weather hasn't really been very challenging though, with hardly any rain and certainly no low temps.  It'll probably only take a couple of weeks to experience all seasons though, so I had better resist the strong temptation to ballast it and allow the weather at it.
Assuming no disasters, I don't have any inclination to keep searching, although I will try Gorilla Glue on a small section of sleeper (thanks for the suggestion Tim).  The only problem I foresee with this is inability to gap fill over the irregularities in the concrete, and give the necessary support to prevent the track flexing too much when I walk on it (or drive over it...).  A thick masticky and solidifying substance seems a better idea here.
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Help Required / Re: Sticking Track to Concrete
« Last Post by Peaky 556 on October 10, 2017, 06:52:23 PM »
Tim,
Perhaps have a word with Ted S?
His business was industrial solvents, adhesives and paints.
John.
Thanks John, I have done so and his advice is to use a Polyurethane grab adhesive.  I am awaiting some in the post.
Meanwhile I have tried six different types of builders grab adhesive, all of them claiming to give wonderful performance.  Three are definitely poor at sticking to concrete; namely Pink Grip (two types), and GripFill.  One other is looking promising after a couple of days, and two others were tried earlier this evening, so early days yet.
I'll report in full when I have drawn some conclusions.  Fingers crossed!
Regards, Tim
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