Who has received their Kingscale GWR 48XX/14XX?

[Rob_B]

Tim,
Thanks for the good words, I'm reasonably happy so far.
Wondered how long it would be before someone questioned the second gauge!
Real world locos had a steam chest pressure gauge which the driver would watch very carefully when moving off from a standstill, you wouldn't want to dump full boiler pressure on the cylinders etc unless you wanted lots of wheelspin, tyre damage, motion damage et al. (Yes, I know the cylinders were fitted with relief valves..)
The large gauge was one from my bitsbox, easier to read and as it happens quite accurate.
As for re-using the original one, I thought "why not?" even though I won't be in the cab 
Anyway I think it looks quite good   
Rob

[IanT]

Yes Rob - very nice work indeed.

IanT

[Rob_B]

Just fabricated an extended whistle guard, seems a shame to paint it but I will...
Next job - cab windows front and back then out with the airbrush.

[Rob_B]

Finished at last....apart from lamps, fire irons, bucket, servo wiring...
Used gunmetal Metalcote for the first time - on buffers and coupling rods to tone down the stainless steel, very pleased with the stuff.
Suppose I'd better make a start on the lamps 

[Rob_B]

Oh..and crankpin nuts to change, 1466 didn't have hex head nuts....

[Rob_B]

Coupling rods should be fish-bellied too but I think I'll leave that for another day 

[IanT]

Looking really good Rob.

Regards,

IanT

[Rob_B]

Thanks Ian. Looking forward to doing the same on my 5" version this year. Dare say it'll need "tweaking"
Regards

[David S]

A little update on my loco.  After living with a persistent jerky motion from new I decided to investigate further.  I had assumed this was just down to the water pump and the need for running in but it seemed to be getting worse, so much so that the loco was almost unrunable at slow speeds.  When out of steam there was some noticeable spongy compression when turning the motion over so I suspected that one of the steam ports was not opening and causing either compression or a partial vacuum to form in the cylinder.  This turned out to be the case as once I'd got the valve chest off I could clearly see that one port was never open.  It was however very difficult to get both ports to open, even with adjustment, the valve gear on one side just didn't seem to move the valve far enough.  There didn't seem to be anything wrong with it as all the nuts seemed tight and it looked to move just like the gear on the opposite side but gave about 1 to 1.5 mm less travel.  In the end I had to file down one side of the affected valve to get both ports to open reliability and the loco now runs much better.  Unfortunately I think the amount of "slop" in the valve gear is to blame here and can't help thinking a simpler reversing gear with fewer connections would be a better bet for future locos.

I must also thank Rob B for his advice and recommending a decent nut runner set to unscrew everything

[Rob_B]

Well...after many hours on AutoCAD and 3D printing/binning prototypes, I've finally got my lamps made, they're dummy ones just now, will alter the CAD files for LED-lit items. Wish me luck chaps.

[Peaky 556]

They look great, so yes, good luck with final mods; how white did they remain in practice (!); and have you any plans to go into production?  I'm sure you could sell a lot of these to make up for some recent frustrations!
Regards, Tim

[Rob_B]

Thanks Tim, doubt if I'll set up a lamp factory, wouldn't be cost effective, though I might consider printing off/selling basic lamp body for others to finish. Can supply glass lenses etc but depends on what people are prepared to pay...
CAD file done for lit examples, pics of end product to follow.

[MikeWilliams]

So maybe print a couple of lamps and have them cast in brass, with recess for the lens?

If that's not what you want to spend time doing I suspect there may be a Gauge 3 supplier willing to do it ....... for some sort of remuneration ...... maybe .......

Mike

[MikeWilliams]

Reading my last post again in the cold light of day, I mean remuneration TO you of course!

Mike

[Rob_B]

The automatic cylinder drain cocks I made and fitted to my 14XX are no more...they proved to be intermittent in function, randomly sticking open/closed. I understand the theory behind their operation but once cylinder oil is factored in to the equation the steel balls within do not float around as they should. So... cylinder drains mark 2 have been made and fitted. A lot more work but positive operation now. They're on handomatic just now c/o the control rod seen in the photo, just need to couple said rod up to the servo down aft.
Rob