Author Topic: "Acetone smoothing" (3D printing)  (Read 232 times)

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Offline John Candy

"Acetone smoothing" (3D printing)
« on: Sep 10 2019 03:44 »
One aspect of "affordable" 3D FDM (filament) printers which has been deterring me from jumping in, is the visible layering which needs to be removed to produce a smooth finish.
The link below describes a method to remove the layering marks from ABS using acetone vapour.
I don't suppose anyone here has tried it?

https://all3dp.com/2/acetone-3d-print-smoothing-easy-steps/?omhide=true&utm_source=Newsletter&utm_campaign=d140e1cc32-Newsletter&utm_medium=email&utm_term=0_9dffeeddae-d140e1cc32-401585401

Regards,
John.
My fellow Members, ask not what your Society can do for you, ask what you can do for your Society.

Offline MikeWilliams

Re: "Acetone smoothing" (3D printing)
« Reply #1 on: Sep 10 2019 08:51 »
No, but f the two figures at the head of that page are before and after, then there don't seem to have been many lines in the first place and it has rounded off some of the detail.

Mike

Offline Rob_B

Re: "Acetone smoothing" (3D printing)
« Reply #2 on: Sep 11 2019 16:12 »
Yes, did this for my loco lamps. Typical layer thickness for printing is 0.1 to 0.15mm, sounds pretty fine but end result is visible and felt with a fingernail. Unless spending megabucks on a printer with even finer resolution, this is what you'll get. I suspended my printed lamps inside a jar lined with tissue paper, popped a few drops of acetone in and watched carefully. Time is critical, too long and surface detail suffers accordingly. End of the day, it's a trade-off between detail and smoothness (unless you want to set to with emery boards, files etc)

Offline Nick

Re: "Acetone smoothing" (3D printing)
« Reply #3 on: Sep 14 2019 16:20 »
I'm also hesitating about jumping in, for similar reasons.

On another forum there is some discussion of another method of printing: digital light projection (DLP), which appears to give much smoother results than FDM, without paying megabucks.

http://modeleng.proboards.com/thread/13244/first-play-anycubic-photon

The photos there show a comparison of the results of the two processes, and DLP does look better. But the resin used is obviously very unpleasant stuff, the post-processing operations are significant, and the set up of the printer does seem critical to success.

Still mulling over which way to go.

Nick

Offline John Candy

Re: "Acetone smoothing" (3D printing)
« Reply #4 on: Sep 14 2019 18:07 »
Nick,

I am also hesitant about the resin bath process for the same reasons.
Another "minus" I concluded (when compared with the filament machines) is the build volume of the low cost resin machines.
Whereas some FDM printers in the "affordable" price ranges (say, sub 800GBP) have beds in excess of 300mm x 200mm, the resin types are generally smaller in area.

Regards,
John.
My fellow Members, ask not what your Society can do for you, ask what you can do for your Society.

Offline Nick

Re: "Acetone smoothing" (3D printing)
« Reply #5 on: Sep 15 2019 09:24 »
For sure the build volume is smaller. The build volume of the Anycubic Photon which I'm looking at is quoted as 115 x 65 x 165. To put that in context, that volume is marginal for, say, a coach bogie, but in any case I would make the frame in metal in the usual way and use the printer for the axleboxes, springs, etc. Generally I prefer to make the larger parts in the traditional ways for many reasons, strength, durability and the ability to solder among them, but I'm looking at 3D printing for the smaller, more fiddly and time-consuming parts.

For my purposes, the volume is adequate. If it weren't for the toxicity issues it would be an easy decision. I need to do some more investigation, but that might be a deal-breaker for me.

Nick