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Motor choice

Started by Nick, Nov 16 2019 10:00

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753

I bow to the work of a master craftsman, maybe one day I can emulate this standard of work, but wonderful to observe.

Mike

Andy B

Quote from: IanT on May 03 2020 09:41
Btw - that's a very nice CAD drawing Nick - what software do you use?

Ian - the answer is on the website to which you pointed us... !

Andy

IanT

OK - it was there in plan view Andy. It's been a few weeks since I first looked at the site...   :-(

Regards,

IanT
Nothing's ever Easy - At least the first time around.

Michael_Mott

Thank you for your Answer Nick, and thank you for the link to Nick's website Ian. Nick I sent you an email from your website, regarding Ron Spiers.

Michael

Jon Nazareth

Digressing slightly.  This little chap is hand driven but I'd like to fit a motor, trouble is, which RPM?  The link that Mike has provided has motors that start at 2 RPM and finish at 1000 RPM.  If I was after a gentle up and down arm movement, which RPM would suit?

Jon


Jon Nazareth

The reason for this motor choice is because the mounting is offset as is the spindle of the motor.

Jon

Peaky 556

Jon, a gentle flap would be at approx one per second, ie 60 rpm, but if you wanted take-off he might need to double that! 8)
Tim

Jon Nazareth

Tim
Thank you for that and the motor has been ordered.  I won't hold my breath waiting for delivery but, I'll keep you updated over progress.

Jon


Jon Nazareth

Mike

I've now ordered one of those as well, thank you.

Jon

Nick

I had the brake shoes and blocks printed in a hard nylon. They are a good candidate for 3DP because they are an awkward shape that would need, I reckoned, at least three setups to machine. As received the surface is a bit rough (the photo makes it look worse than it is) but it is easily filed smooth. I chose nylon for its durability and because it is low friction in case it came into contact with the wheels. Which, when you think about it, is the exact opposite of the needs of the real thing.






I also tried to get the connectors between the brake bars and the pull rods printed, but they were too fine for the process. (The feedback from the printer suggested that I "scale them up". Evidently they don't get many requests for exact scale components.) I ended up machining them like everything else.




In addition to the brake equipment, all the detail of the front buffer beam is done.



Nick

The smokebox wrapper is 0.5 mm nickel silver, which I prefer to brass because it conducts heat less well, so you can use a smaller iron with less chance of burnt fingers. Also NS takes paint better.

The South Western clearly preferred to use flush rivets, giving a very smooth appearance to their locos, not to mention making it easier for the modeller. An exception was the rivets inside the angles securing that part of the footplate between the frames to the frames themselves. I represented them using etymological pins that I bought years ago on the recommendation of a modeller in smaller scales. They proved to be much too large for O Gauge rivets, but work well in Gauge 3.




Nick

Oops! Should, of course, be entomological pins.

753

Nick
Regarding soldering, have you tried using resistance soldering as it gives complete control of heat where you want it. I can recommend the process.

Mike

Chris_P

Very neat. 

My first thought was this would help me with a project where the dressmaker pins I'd considered looked far too small.  Unfortunately a quick search for the entomological pins showed that most now have some sort of plastic or resin ball spherical head.  I assume your old stock were all metal with a traditional domed rivet like head.  Maybe others can recommend current suppliers?