Recommended point operating levers

[MEL 41]

My plans for a new standard gauge interchange with my narrow gauge railway are now coming together with another parcel of Cliff Barker track arriving today including my first (and likely to be my only) point.

What do people recommend as a good point operating lever? I'd like to find something that is reliable in use and gives a fairly good scale appearance (running BR 50s / 60s era).

[cabbage]

I use the one sold by Cliff Barker.



I started off with only ever having one set of points too... By the end of the year there will be family of four of them...

regards

ralph

[keith Bristol]

I was going to only have four, at the last count 17nr with another 7 to order..... I use the temille lever with an adapter between cliffs track and the lever which is attached with two brass ba bolts.

[blagdon]

Mel
Don't forget that point levers adjacent to switches were only used in sidings, yards and loco depots. Points on running lines were controlled from signal boxes or ground frames, and linked by rodding and cranks etc.

Ian the Gauge '3' Pirate

[MEL 41]

Hi Ian, yes that's exactly the situation that I am planning, a run of about 12' into 2 sidings (hence the point) which act as an interchange with the narrow gauge. I see this as an extension of a larger off scene goods yard, so there would be no other requirements for points, signals etc. making a single lever ideal.

I'd love to have a more extensive gauge 3 section, but it ain't going to happen as my garden is so small that I'd struggle just to fit in a loop of track at the sort of radii required.

Thanks for all the useful ideas up to now BTW.

[MikeWilliams]

There is another point lever of course:

It does not hold the blades firmly in place, so needs some sort of over-centre spring, but has a nice "feel" to it.  John Taylor made the patterns and very nice they are too.

And just in case nobody knows yet, I have to declare a commercial interest as it is one of my products  etc etc etc.

[Jon Nazareth]

Does anyone have or know of a drawing for the tall levers that are used in goods yards?  I'd quite like to make two working models of these.

Jon

[hornbeam]

I've got two of the Williams models ones and very good they are. Tenmille do them as mentioned and they work well but the all brass Ones form Mike Williams would get my vote Mel.

[Jon Nazareth]

Hornbeam

Do the points hold the blades hard against the rail or have you fitted a spring?  If a spring has been fitted, could you tell me how you have done this, please?

Jon

[John Candy]

Jon,

I have four of Mike's levers and they do not require a spring.
If you squeeze (gently with pliers) the channel/slot in which the lever moves, then there will be sufficient friction to hold the blades in place. Move lever to vertical position and pinch (lightly) where shown.

John.

[Jon Nazareth]

Thanks, John, I'll give that a try.

Jon

[MikeWilliams]

I know that over-centre springing is used in the smaller gauges (e.g. Peco) and seems like a good idea.  Does anyone have experience of making one, or know of a commercial supplier?

Mike

[cabbage]

I have a friend in the US who makes his Gauge One points springs from Nappy Pins...

Regards

Ralph

[John Candy]

If one isn't too "fussed" about appearances, a solution might be to cast a cylindrical billet of a heavy metal (lead/white-metal/pewter) to match the diameter of the existing dummy weight and fit it to the end of the lever.
Additional weight should provide sufficient moment to keep the lever down.

Haven't tried it but may do in future.

John.

[hornbeam]

Peco might supply the spring as used in their G45 points and Piko may also supply them as they also use them in their points.