I am trying to finish off a GWR Mink before the AGM and want the 25in letters. I've tried the main suppliers without any luck. Does anyone know of a source of transfers correct for these very large letters in the GWR style?
Regrettably I'm not up to painting them myself, by hand.
Mike
Mike,
You could get transfer paper and make them yourself? There are several types of water slide transfer paper that can be put through either a laser or an inkjet.
regards
ralph
Mike,
If they prove impossible to obtain, I suggest printing the outline on decal film in a light colour (say primrose) and then go over the outline in white paint using a draughtsman's bow pen or Moore lining pen) and then infill with white paint.
The letters will be large enough to do this fairly easily.
John.
Ralph,
Only problem is that PC inklet/laser printers cannot print in white...you need an 'Alps' type printer which carries white and metallic film.
John.
I have never tried it Mike - but I have wondered in the past whether a large 'Avery' label could be printed and used for fairly simple shapes/lettering such as this.
You could print a straight black & white parcel label to the required size (and font) and then cut the letters out with a scapel to effectively give you (leave behind) a 'spray mask' label. In this instance it's just a solid white colour and fairly uncomplicated shapes, so it might work OK in practice. Fairly simple/quick to try out on a test piece too.
IanT
Sorry John....
I keep forgetting that the rest of the world is "handicapped" by having to use PCs at home and work... ;D
IanT your method does merit some thought -could you pass an "overhead transparency film" sheet through your printer to produce your "mask"?
regards
ralph
Ian,
I started reading your note thinking "silly idea, that will never ..." and then reconsidered. For just two letters I think you might be right. I'll have a go. I have a good boadside of the real wagon, so can easily print exact size. One problem I can see is that the letters go right to the edge of the panel, in fact onto the flat base of the angle irons, so can't be completely flat against the side.
If it works I could have them laser cut in thin stainless stee and supplied with the kits!
Mike
Not sure why I would want to Ralph but I think you can get transparency sheets for inkjets these days. I've certainly used them on laser printers in the past - but that's a heat transfer process.
Mike - to clarify, I was suggesting the self-adhesive labels only in the sense that they could be held lightly in position. I don't think you would want to press them down too firmly, just enough to 'seal' the edges sufficiently.
With respect to ironwork - I think in this case you could trim down to a flat surface (a bit like wall-papering) and just add some more masking over any bits that stuck up/were left uncovered.
Your idea of a template is essentially the same approach but would need to have slots for fittings that were proud of the surface - but why not?
I think I might be tempted to spray quite lightly to get the broad shape/outline - the edges could always be firmed up with a brush afterwards if required. Perhaps better than applying too much paint and having problems with peeling the template/overspray off afterwards.
Plastic film would be better in terms of ease of "peeling off" post paint - and you can get signage laser (?) cut for placement on windows etc. This would be much smaller than that and you would want the 'bit left behind' after the letters had been removed, but essentially it's the same process. Know any Signwriters? :-)
Ian,
Funnily enough, the official photograph of a Mink built for the LNWR as a gunpowder van shows overspray around the white letters, which I have always found very interesting. Firstly it shows that the real railways used stencils, and secondly that wagons were being spray painted as early as c1915.
Mike
Well, I decided on thick paper rather than labels, to be cut as a snug fit between the uprights and pressed down to the panel. The stencil is done and was much easier than expected. I'll brush it for several reasons: don't have a spray which I know can be used over Humbrol; not experienced at spraying; feel more in control of a brush.
Will try a test piece tomorrow and see how it goes ....
Thanks Ian.
Mike
Hello Mike
Roger at Wallsall has done some G3 G.W. wagons whats he used ?
John
John / Mike,
Walsall sent me an A4 sheet of GWR transfers with my cattle wagon kit.
They appear to be Gauge 1 / 10mm scale but the largest 'GW' is 19.5mm high, just about acceptable for the 16 inch lettering in G3.
Regards,
John.
Here's the results of my first test with the stencil. Stencil to the right, letter to the left.
On the plus side its the right shape, right size, in the right place and there's obviously no carrier film.
On the minus side there's an awful lot of touching in to do.
But I think its worth playing with, such as using other materials and do the outline with a pen rather than a brush. If it can be made to work it will only ever be suitable for large letters on a flat ground - e.g. not over strapping, but the stencil could be made so its outer edges locate accurately against some feature on the model and the letter ends up in exactly the right place.
Mike
Mike,
Try using a small piece of sponge with very little paint (almost dry) and dabbing over the stencil.
It may take two or more applications to give full opacity (allowing to dry between coats).
John.
Mike
I have used a similar technique with a pair of your PO wagons. I tried the transfers but had difficulty with the strapping and adhesion. In the end I had a stencil made up of the TREDEGAR and number lettering and sprayed over. We spray paint stencils over our finished product boxes and have a software program whereby you can vary font width between letters etc. The stencils are in a blue film which you peel off the backing and have a low tack backing.
They where not a perfect fit over the strapping and there was a fair bit of overspray but not so much that it could not be tidied up and the bars supporting the hollow letters painted over. I used a ooo paint brush. Applying a bit of weathering over the end result blends it all in fairly well. I do not have a photograph but will post after I have taken one.
David