I bought the kit from Mike late last year to accompany a D32 wagon that I had just finished (one wagon turned out to be not enough in the end!). The intervening time has been spent cleaning up the components and preparing everything ready for assembly. Alas, I wasn't on the ball enough to take photos on opening the box, so the first photo shows all of the components in their prepared state.
(http://lakes-pages.com/uploads/stevecook/Complete_LNWR_D1_Kit_from_Williams_Models_G3F.JPG)
The preparation was largely down to removing moulding pips and feeds, cleaning up the odd bit of flash and chemically blackening the wheels and buffers. The buffers have been mounted in a lathe and had the outside edges radiused, the turning pip from the centre of the buffer filed off and a quick rub over with 600 grit wet and dry paper to smooth out the marks from turning. The only other bits to receive attention were the coupling chains - these have been filed to create a more rounded end. The wagon body was washed in warm water, before the coupling hook holes were filed out and the buffer housing holes drilled through.
The W irons were soldered up using the spacing jig that Mike supplies. I was a bit lax in cleaning up after soldering (Carrs Green Label flux and 145 solder) hence the rust evident on the parts. This has since been cleaned up as best as possible to give a complete unit.
(http://lakes-pages.com/uploads/stevecook/W_irons_G3F.jpg)
The W iron assembly was offered up to the body and eyeballed into position. The holes in the W iron cross braces were used to mark the underside of the wagon to ensure it went back in the right location. It was glued into place using 5 minute epoxy, a pair of clamps holding everything square until the glue had dried.
(http://lakes-pages.com/uploads/stevecook/W_irons_glued_and_clamped_in_place_G3F.JPG)
The axleboxes were checked for fit (just needed a little tickle with a file to ensure they slid smoothly within the irons), then they were mounted on the wagon along with the dummy white metal springs to confirm all was square and free rolling.
(http://lakes-pages.com/uploads/stevecook/Mock_up_to_check_springs_and_axleboxes_G3F.JPG)
Happy with the result, the springs and axleboxes were numbered so I'd know where they came from, then the springs were glued into place using 5 minute epoxy again. The buffer housings were glued in next, keeping an eye on the instructions to ensure that the bolt orientation was correct.
(http://lakes-pages.com/uploads/stevecook/Springs_and_buffer_housings_glued_in_G3F.JPG)
The mounting holes for the brake lever rack were drilled into the solebar (see photo above), then the brake lever brass overlays were soldered into place and the whole assembly chemically blackened. Once the brake lever support and rack had been glued in, the axleboxes and wheels were refitted and the brake gear assembled. The couplings and 3 link chains were put together and slipped in for the following photo
(http://lakes-pages.com/uploads/stevecook/Brakes_and_couplings_added_G3F.jpg)
The last assembly job was to glue the horse hooks, label holders and number plates into position
(http://lakes-pages.com/uploads/stevecook/Horse_hooks_and_plates_added_G3F.JPG)
That brings the build up to date, the brake gear remains loose at this point in time so it can all be stripped for painting whilst the axlebox keeps (not shown) have been chemically blackened and will be fitted after painting.
Next on the job list is to fabricate some tarpaulin cleats and fixing rings, then she'll be ready for the paintshop. The intended finish will not be as neglected as the D32 wagon shown below, but hopefully still pretty care worn and abused.
(http://lakes-pages.com/uploads/stevecook/Paired_up_G3F.JPG)
Steve
Great post Steve, looking forward to seeing your paint job on this one too!
Regards,
IanT
Quote from: IanT on Oct 30 2010 10:53
Great post Steve, looking forward to seeing your paint job on this one too!
Thanks Ian.
Still not decided on the livery yet, I might just go for the diamonds again as they are easier to weather than transfers ;)
Steve
Hello Steve, I though you had deserted us sad mortals ?
Richard
My Grandfather once told me "If you're going to make more than two of anything, make a jig first." Wise words they turned out to be too, having put the idea into practice more than a few times and appreciated the time saving that results.
Thus, knowing I had to make 10 cleats for the wagon, it won't surprise you that the first job was to create a simple jig to make the process as easy as possible. A section of brass bar was cut to length and one end filed to create a small protrusion that was equal to the inside dimensions of the cleats. This jig was then mounted in a small vice and the process of bending up the 0.5mm brass wire started.
The first bend is 90 degrees to create a small tail. With the wire in the jig, what will become the bottom of the cleat is clamped to the jig with a pair of pliers so the long tail can be bent round another 90 degrees . The photo below shows the jig with a finished cleat resting in place which should help make more sense of the above.
(http://lakes-pages.com/uploads/stevecook/Cleat_Jig_G3F.JPG)
If the first short tail is too long, it overhangs the jig and prevents being able to clamp the wire with the pliers – a couple of passes with a file are all that's needed to shorten it to length. The long tail was cut to a length of 8mm, each cleat being measured and marked against a ruler, then the excess trimmed off. The photo below shows the jig and bent up cleats (the red marking on the jig shows the filed areas and hopefully makes it easier to see).
(http://lakes-pages.com/uploads/stevecook/Cleats_and_Jig_G3F.jpg)
The rings were formed by wrapping 0.5mm diameter brass wire around a 2.5mm drill bit.
(http://lakes-pages.com/uploads/stevecook/Ring_Rolling_G3F.jpg)
Once about six whole turns were present, the resulting coil was slid off the bit and a pair of cutters used to slice down the coil. This gives a set of 'twisted rings' which need tweaking with a pair of pliers, then the two ends soldering together.
The cleats and the rings were then chemically blackened. The cleats were done individually by holding the long tail end with pliers and dipping the remainder in the blackening solution. The rings were all threaded on to another length of wire so they could be fully immersed and then washed off.
(http://lakes-pages.com/uploads/stevecook/Rings_and_Cleats_Blackened_G3F.jpg)
A small confession to make at this point. I assumed that the rings would be held in place by a looped coach bolt as I've seen on other wagons – alas, after making the bolts and gluing them into position, I was flicking through some photos to realize the rings were actually attached using a U shaped bolt. :-[ Never mind, I guess that can just act as a reminder to look at pictures before modeling, or not afterwards...
Anyway, in case the following is useful for anyone, I've shown the four stages in making up the looped coach bolts.
Stage 1 (top). The bolt is made from 0.5mm steel wire, @40mm long and folded back on itself with ring resting in resulting loop.
Stage 2 is to clamp the wire with pliers just behind the ring.
Stage 3 is to cut off one leg (note, cut at an angle through the wire, not at right angles).
Stage 4 (bottom) is to close up the resulting gap with a pair of pliers.
(http://lakes-pages.com/uploads/stevecook/Tarpaulin_Ring_Hook_Bolts_G3F.jpg)
The finished ring / bolt assemblies were then dunked in the blackening solution, washed off and left to dry.
A series of holes were drilled on the underside of the wagon to take the cleats, while 0.6mm holes were drilled in the headstocks to take the rings. Both things were glued in with superglue, then the cleats were twisted and bent to represent items that have seen a lifetime of abuse. The photos below show the end result – time to wash the body and let it dry ready for priming tomorrow (fingers crossed for tomorrow)...
(http://lakes-pages.com/uploads/stevecook/Tarpaulin_Cleats_and_Rings1_G3F.JPG)
(http://lakes-pages.com/uploads/stevecook/Tarpaulin_Cleats_and_Rings2_G3F.jpg)
Steve
Quote from: Richard T on Oct 30 2010 17:45
Hello Steve, I though you had deserted us sad mortals ?
Richard
Hi Rich
Not deserted, just took a small hiatus :D
I'm still not sure what the G3 destination will be, but this is a nice project to ease myself back into the modelling mindset (and remind me just how big all this stuff is!).
Steve
An early start this morning meant I managed to get the first coat of primer on the bodyshell before the heavens opened. The rest of the day was spent dodging showers and getting the rest of the components primed and painted. The photo below shows a rough and ready assembly job with everything loosely in place, I've separated all the bits now to ensure none get stuck together as the paint dries fully overnight...
(http://lakes-pages.com/uploads/stevecook/Primed_G3F.JPG)
Steve
Hello All
Take care Steve there could be a magazine article try to escape
John
At the rate Steve is going, I shall have to convert it to an eBook for downloading, before the forum server suffers a nervous breakdown! ;)
Well done Steve. Nice to se somebody researching futher into the details and not just taking a kit at face value.
Nice publicity for me too (blush!).
Mike
Thanks for the comments Gents.
Quote from: John Candy on Nov 01 2010 00:24
At the rate Steve is going, I shall have to convert it to an eBook for downloading, before the forum server suffers a nervous breakdown! ;)
;D It'll be a bit slower from here on in anyway as I experiment with achieving the desired paint finish, three failed attempts on a scrap body this evening, thinking cap on...
Mike...'Tis a pleasure
Steve
No progress on the paint front, so I've added some extra detail to the capping on the perimeter of the body. Its a bit difficult to make out in the photo, but I've added the join lines in the capping between the ends and sides and an attempt to represent the fixings used to hold it in place.
(http://lakes-pages.com/uploads/stevecook/Capping_Detail_G3F.jpg)
Steve
A bit of progress after a couple of weeks off.
Having decided that I didn't want the wagon to look too worn, but not factory fresh either, the outside was drybrushed with a variety of light brown and grey shades to create a slightly varied wood effect.
(http://lakes-pages.com/uploads/stevecook/wood_effect_G3F.jpg)
Maskol was then applied using the end of a sharpened cocktail stick.
(http://lakes-pages.com/uploads/stevecook/Maskol_Applied_G3F.jpg)
The wagon was shot in primer again and the diamonds stenciled on.
(http://lakes-pages.com/uploads/stevecook/Top_Coat_and_Diamonds_G3F.JPG)
The paint was allowed to dry for a couple of hours, then most of the maskol was picked off to show the 'wood effect' underneath the paint. The diamonds were given a first rub over with isopropyl alcohol to fade them down a touch.
(http://lakes-pages.com/uploads/stevecook/Maskol_Removed_and_Diamonds_Faded_G3F.jpg)
Some of the maskol has been left to try and give the illusion of paint that is about to 'blow', I'm in two minds as to whether the effect is successful or not....
(http://lakes-pages.com/uploads/stevecook/Bubbling_Paint_G3F.JPG)
The interior woodwork was painted next using a base coat of light beige. Various shades of grey and brown were added to the mix and dry brushed over the base coat. A wash of dirty brown was then flooded over the top to tone it all in a bit.
(http://lakes-pages.com/uploads/stevecook/Interior_Woodwork_Painted_G3F.JPG)
Everything below the solebars has been painted in a dirty black mix, including all the axleboxes, wheels, buffers etc. It is all being left to dry properly overnight ready for assembly in the morning, I can then get on with the next stage of weathering and detailing.
Steve
Nice work Steve!
Ian T
Quote from: IanT on Nov 18 2010 22:32
Nice work Steve!
Thanks Ian :)
Some more slow but steady progress
(http://lakes-pages.com/uploads/stevecook/Halfway_through.jpg)
Steve
Love those diamonds ................
R
Steve,
What sort of camera & lighting do you use when photographing your models? Do you use a tripod or other support?
Your close-ups have a good depth of field and the colours also look good - much better than my hurried W.I.P photos, which I think suffer more from lack of set-up rather than the camera itself (a Canon A540).
Any hints and tips welcome.
Andy
Hi Andy
I use an old point and squirt digital camera, its an Olympus D540 I've had for 6 or 7 years now (3.2 Mega Pixel).
Lighting wise, the bench is below two halogen downlighters (@35W each), then to offset the yellow cast they create, I have a daylight bulb in my modelling lamp (flexible arm jobbie from HobbyCraft). The daylight bulb is used to create some side lighting which the downlighters fail to provide.
I use the inbuilt light correction on the camera and often shoot as if its daylight as opposed to indoor lighting. Some of the shots are made from a tripod, but in the main I shoot from a sitting position, but with one foot on the seat base so the camera can rest on my knee - making me the tripod in that case :D
A lot of the close ups are cropped shots from further away to preserve the depth of field. Its a technique that works OK for forum photography where one can accept the compromise in quality a bit more. I have discovered a 'super macro' mode on the camera today which I shall use to see if it stops me having to crop close-ups.
I generally shoot a minimum of three times to give me the best chance of getting a good shot without camera wobble. I'm also not adverse to using the colour correction facilities in Microsoft Office Picture Manager to get what I want.
Hope that helps
Steve
Excellent advice, Steve, and your photos are great. Generally, the brighter the light (within reason), the smaller the lens aperture (f number) that an automatic camera sets and the greater the depth of field resulting. As you say, a secondary lighting source (such as fill-in flash in broad daylight) can reduce dark shadows. Brighter light means a fast shutter speed and less likelihood of shake.
I use not only colour correction until it 'looks right', but also rotation/perspective correction - verticals should be vertical!
Regards, Ted
Steve, your wagon looks great and I look forward to seeing it completed.
These tips on photographing models both from you and Ted are useful in their own right and I think I should set up a board for advice on how to effectively photograph G3 models.
Ted regularly provides both Ian Turner and myself with excellent photos for the Newsletter and website respectively.
To increase interest in the possibilities of G3 modelling it is necessary to have plenty of pictures of high quality, to publicise the level of detail possible with a large scale and the realism achievable.
Taking close-ups of models requires more than just a camera with a macro lens, there are lighting and other considerations (the fish-eye effect of a wide-angle lens being an example) to be taken into account.
Comments on proposal welcomed.
John.
This has drifted off-topic a bit from Steve's wagon - I probably should have started a new thread originally, so apologies.
Is there a difference between pictures for the Newsletter, and pictures for the forum? I think there is, especially to support 'workbench' threads such as this.
I am grateful to those, like Ted, who spend their time and develop their photographic skills along with buying specialist equipment to produce great pictures for the Newsletter.
Others, like myself, may simply wish to get a few work-in-progress pictures that we can use to share ideas on the forum - so Steve's simple set-up sounds good to me!
Thanks,
Andy
Andy,
Yes, Steve's simple setup is certainly fine for the forum to illustrate construction techniques but for the main website (and the Gallery) I really do require a supply of good, well-composed images (particularly of layouts) to show G3 to best effect.
Photographing indoor layouts (e.g.Blackgang, Wharton Road, Tiptree, etc.) does require specialised skills and techniques (especially in the lighting department) to achieve professional results.
I am hoping that the Railway Modeller session at Blackgang may produce some material for the website.
Regards,
John.
Quote from: John Candy on Nov 23 2010 17:58
Steve, your wagon looks great and I look forward to seeing it completed.
These tips on photographing models both from you and Ted are useful in their own right and I think I should set up a board for advice on how to effectively photograph G3 models.
...snip.....
Comments on proposal welcomed.
Thanks John.
I'd be happy to contribute what little I know to a photography board, it would also be a good place for me learn some of the skills that Ted shows. I'm happy if you wish to slice and dice some of the posts in here to transfer over, but I've no objection if they stay either (I can cope with a bit of O/T meanderings Andy ;) )
I have a little play with the super-macro feature on the camera today, so just for Rich T, a close up of one of the diamonds
(http://lakes-pages.com/uploads/stevecook/Diamond_Close_Up.JPG)
Steve
I have to say that the end result you've achieved is absolutely stunning Steve.
If I didn't know any better - I would look at this photo and believe it was a real 'wooden' side I was looking at, the grain and weathering effects are fantastic. That 'capping' works very well too - a nice finishing touch.
Terrific!
Ian T
Very kind of you to say so Ian, I'm glad you like it :)
I can't take credit for the grain though, that is already a feature of the resin casting, it just needs light coats of paint to ensure it doesn't get swamped. The capping is part of the supplied body too, but when cleaning up the edge on this one, a slight gap appeared between the capping and bodyside. Looking at the close up, perhaps I should have refined the opening a bit more (but then it is about three times the actual size).
Steve
Cappings on these real wagons are steel strip with a rounded top face, not unlike those still used today for handrails on steel railings. They were fixed by woodscrews and bolts from the top which I believe were countersunk into the capping. What surprises me is how they actually put the wagons together because those bolts went right through the 9in plank, and the curb rail, with square nuts underneath. That's not too bad, but with a 4-plank wagon and 36in sides, the bolts still went right through the whole lot. I guess it just required jigs, power tools and care cutting all the holes before assembly but as this was 90 - 130 years ago I am constantly amazed at the workmanship they managed to achieve. We couldn't afford to build wagons like that today.
Great pictures Steve.
Mike
Its taken longer than I thought it would to get round to finishing the model – a new job and a busy start to the year put paid to any modeling time – but a day off and plenty of rain outside saw it finished and some photos taken. Well, I say finished.... in the act of taking the photos I've noticed a couple of areas that could do with a bit of re-work. Nothing major and the end result will look barely any different, so we'll call these the finished photos and be done with it :D
All I've done since the last post is to weather to solebars with a grubby black wash and a bit of drybrushing, remove and refit the brake lever support (but with a more prototypical joggle in it) and add a bit more drybrushing and staining to the interior woodwork. The whole lot has then been subjected to some dusting with ground pastels to tie it all in.
You'll have to excuse some of the variation in background colour in the photos below, these are the first photos using a light tent and lights and I'm having to learn how to get the best out of them and the camera (to be honest, think I'm reaching the limits of my old point and squirt). Anyway, enough waffle, finished (ish) photos
(http://lakes-pages.com/uploads/stevecook/Wagon1_G3F.JPG)
(http://lakes-pages.com/uploads/stevecook/Wagon2_G3F.jpg)
(http://lakes-pages.com/uploads/stevecook/Wagon3_G3F.JPG)
(http://lakes-pages.com/uploads/stevecook/Detail1_G3F.jpg)
(http://lakes-pages.com/uploads/stevecook/Detail2_G3F.JPG)
Steve
Still stunning Steve - well done.
Regards,
Ian T
Cheers Ian, pleased to know I haven't made a hash of it!
Steve
Steve,
Have just seen your wagon photos. Superb job. Could I be nosey and ask what colours and material you used for the underframe details? Your weathering looks so realistic.
Regards,
Roger.
Hi Steve,
Ignore last post - had not looked back over your previous posts on page 1.
Roger.