Who has received their Kingscale GWR 48XX/14XX?

[hornbeam]

Thanks for the tip Ashley will give that a go. I've found gas control and lighting a little tricky at times. I guess I'm used to things working out of the box, I don't think it's been the case here. I'll contact Kingscale about the running issues and see what they say.

Simon

[DanDe]

Our14xx was supplied a while ago but an attempt to run it on temporary track was stalled as when trying to fill the boiler we noticed the water feed (thru the r/lvalve) passing staight thru the boiler onto the track. Obviously a missing part somewhere! Also checking the Radio Control (static operation)was able to work out where the (obscure) switches were and the controller seemed to operate the governor/reverser OK - but to the opposite switches on the controller as indicated on the instructions supplied. Not a problem providing you remember which controller switch to operate. Noticed however the charger connection to the battery lead on the loco was intermittent on electrical connection, and it took a while to establish a constant charge.The charger lead dangles down a bit doesn't it - and is fiddly to tuck away after charging. Currently the Loco is at Kingscale to sort the boiler filling problem and the charger connection. Reading the other feedback replies with interest!!

[hornbeam]

Well had a further run yesterday. Thank you again Ashley water supply now almost keeps up with usage but I'm amazed how much water it uses.

It ran well until a further servo failure. I hope with more running the pump will bed in taking less power off the loco. The jet blocked again and I'm looking at replacing it as I know chuffed2bits have a better machined version as Accucraft owners have similar issues.

Kingscale have agreed to refund the radio control so I'll get a decent system. Has anyone used the Peter spoerer system?

[David S]

I've now fitted a replacement gas filler valve supplied by Jon at Kingscale.  My original one finally let go and just ejected all the gas out of the tank in a few seconds.  I'm now getting about 30 minutes per gas fill and the engine is running well.  Regarding the water usage, I find I need to refill the water tank 4 or 5 times a run but I'm not letting the tank run totally dry. 

One thing to check if the water supply isn't keeping up with demand is, is the water tank running dry?  If it does air will be pumped into the system which will probably stop the pump working, even if water is subsequently added to the tank.  If the tank runs dry try priming it with the hand pump after adding water to get rid of the air locks or alternatively run the engine fast with the bypass closed.   I find that if I start with a 1/4 glass of water by the end of the run I have between 1/2 to 3/4 of a glass if the bypass valve is closed the entire run

[hornbeam]

I've ordered new radio control from Brian Jones. He thinks that the supplied Servos are not man enough so it maybe why it's hard to get the regulator to close properly. Once I've installed I'll post some pictures if anyone is interested.

Simon.

[AshleyW]

my manual version was not getting the regulator closed. have you tried undo-ing the allen bolt of the regulator handle on the regulator shaft and lifting the handle anti-clock wise slightly and re-tightening? mine was up against the whistle valve and still trying to move- the above sorted it out and it shuts fully home before reaching the whitsle valve now.

[joewatt]

I've had to move the regulator position many times in my attempts to get the correct alignment with my radio control servo. It is 'fiddly' but straightforward to do - make sure you have the correct Allen Key and it is firmly in the screw head.

To add to the list of areas to check, I found that the copper water feed tube was chafing on the driving wheel axle crank. It's worth checking this and bending the tube out of the way. This chafe was unnecessary because there is plenty of spare length to the tube to enable a generous routing. See photo.

[AshleyW]

i did recently ask roundhouse for their catalogue of gas tanks. i was wondering if,the cylindrical one would fit in the cab on the l/h side,to free up the left hand tank for another water tank to double capacity??

my recent runs have seen gas last apx 25-30 mins (if turned down low- no blowing off and pressure less than normal).

during that time i used one 60ml's water pumping up from almost empty and getting up steam/clearing condensate and then another 3 lots during the run,so ideally once in steam if a separate water carrying vehicle was used, it would need at least an additional 120ml.

[David S]

Just a little update.  I don't know if anyone else has had this problem but recently the clack valve on my 14xx stopped seating causing steam and water to be ejected into the water tank.  I took it off the loco and cleaned it but it still wouldn't seal properly.  It went back to Kingscale for repair and I've just refitted it to the loco.  It still leaks a little but its better than before.  I suspect the reason the water pump sometimes stops working is because steam is leaking into the pipework.

I can't help thinking the loco would have been better suited to slow speed running and less prone to problems if it had been built with a larger capacity single flue boiler designed to run on a single fill system thus eliminating the need for a water pump

[hornbeam]

I've currently given up on my loco.

I'd agree a water bottle top up would have been simpler and in fact a plug on the boiler so the initial fill up could be made rather than having to use a pump.

[AshleyW]

why not take the whistle off and use the bush for an additional boiler fill plug? i agree the gas may last longer if it was single flue burner. i guess we must have the emergency hand pump to meet boiler testing requirements?? otherwise one could just have the axle pump when running and make another extra water tank to fit the bunker space??

[joewatt]

I am now content with my GWR 1466. I had replaced the gas filler valve because it leaked. However, with the replacement valve I couldn't get sufficient gas into the tank to enable more than 10 minutes' burning. Therefore, I refitted the original valve and was able to fill the gas tank properly. I now get close to the specification 30 minutes' running.
It is disappointing that this design - which I presume is a standard Gauge 1 system - is awkward to manage. My GRS Live Steam Austerity is simple to prepare and run. Moreover, the boiler holds all the water it needs from the start, so no need to have a water feed system.
I managed to fit radio control, to my own design, to the steam valve. However, the battery pack is obvious - taking up too much space in the tender. Also, I've no idea how to get the direction lever under radio control. has anyone managed that?

[David S]

I am now content with my GWR 1466. I had replaced the gas filler valve because it leaked. However, with the replacement valve I couldn't get sufficient gas into the tank to enable more than 10 minutes' burning. Therefore, I refitted the original valve and was able to fill the gas tank properly. I now get close to the specification 30 minutes' running.
It is disappointing that this design - which I presume is a standard Gauge 1 system - is awkward to manage. My GRS Live Steam Austerity is simple to prepare and run. Moreover, the boiler holds all the water it needs from the start, so no need to have a water feed system.
I managed to fit radio control, to my own design, to the steam valve. However, the battery pack is obvious - taking up too much space in the tender. Also, I've no idea how to get the direction lever under radio control. has anyone managed that?

The gas filling problem sounds like the loco gas tank was probably warmer than the gas canister used to fill it, which would explain why the tank didn't fill very well.  The tank can be cooled by opening the gas valve for a short time while filling.  The expansion and vaporisation of the liquid "gas" cools the tank (and thus lowers the vapour pressure) and it can then fill properly.  I suspect the leaky gas filler valve is doing the same thing.

I agree with you regarding the single fill system.  It would mean no water pump or water gauge would be required and would give more care free running.  This system is what most gas fired 16mm scale locos use.

For R/C control of direction why not just remove the reversing quadrant and fit a servo in its place directly attached to the reach rod

[Rob_B]

As a newbie I thought I'd add my own experiences of the Kingscale 14XX. The loco I have is the second, the first suffered from loose valve eccentrics  I agree with those citing a QC issue - a lot of components on both locos were loose - and the use of phillips screws on major items beggars belief - see my pics. I still think the loco is a cracking model but it needs a bit of fine-tuning. Kingscale to be fair have been very supportive.
I have a list of to-do's and my current progress can be seen in the pics. I'll update as I work through the list.

[Rob_B]

Another few jobs off the to-do list....didn't like the gas valve handle so made a new one, bit easier to adjust the burner now. Also noted the large-headed hex retaining screw on the valve gear pivot (both sides) was about to fall off. Thread found undersize so changed for a safer replacement - see pic.
The bypass valve spindle cone is 90 deg so turned the end down to 10 deg taper, flashed up loco, now I can adjust the water feed much better - no more "on or off" settings!