Martin Evans Eagle

[Jon_C]

Hello,

Firstly id like to say thanks for the add to the forum I'm hoping to get some tips, as well as maybe pass on a trick or two in the process.

I came across the eagle loco by accident. I have a love of anything steam and at the time I was actually searching for a traction engine design (also in the same issues, links posted below). Subsequently after reading the articles and studying the plans for eagle. I've decided to have a go at building her. Although I'll possibly shock you all here, but i'm not really after a scale appearance loco, just an engine that does its job, (I know mainly down to the builder that one). Its just been built for the fun of building it, yes ill possibly add more details as the build progresses, but finer details can be included later.

So below are the pages on Model engineer that I found the magazines on, these are available to download even if you are not registered as a member, (I tried both ways).

Model Mechanics Parts 1-4 https://www.model-engineer.co.uk/news/article/model-mechanics-complete-issues-for-download-parts-1--4/5462
Model Mechanics Parts 5-10 https://www.model-engineer.co.uk/news/article/model-mechanics-complete-issues-for-download-parts-5--10/5504
Model Mechanics Parts 11-12, & Vol 2 Part 2 https://www.model-engineer.co.uk/news/article/model-mechanics-complete-issues-vol-1-parts-11--12-vol-2-part-2/5549

This includes the full build series for the 2.1/2" Eagle locomotive, (also for those of any interest the sweet sixteen traction engine I was originally searching for before been draw to the eagle).

Id like to do a build series if anyone is interested in me doing so? If not i'll post pics as the build progresses and reaches completion "stages". Though both options are dependant on me getting my lathe and mill and workshop set up, after finally been granted a little time in the shed after a house move.

I have already found out the 2.1/2" gauge association supply castings for this loco and have made enquires as to current prices, though really my thoughts are for the wheels and the pump stretcher casting, as the others are relatively straight forward, and not too time consuming to be made up from barstock.

[cabbage]

Firstly -Welcome to the forum!

Secondly -Have a look here. http://www.gauge3.info/wiki/index.php?n=Main.HomePage

regards

ralph

[cabbage]

By all means do a build diary. Could I ask that we can use the articles in the G3 Wiki?

Regards

Ralph

[IanT]

Hallo Jon - and welcome !

Roger M, one of the long term members of the G3 Society has a very nice 'Eagle' he built some years ago. I haven't seen it run recently but it used to put in regular appearances at G3S GTGs and it was always a reliable engine. Roger painted it a rather fetching blue - as per the GNR(I) livery. It always me reminded of someone I met once...

Many years ago, an elderly gentleman was not feeling very well at our local supermarket and I offered to take him home. It turned out that he was a very skilled model engineer - although he had always worked completely alone - never joining any MES or Club. He had many small stationary & traction engines he'd built (in beautifully made glass cases) all around the house. Outside in the shed he had a very nice George Adams 2.5" lathe, purchased from new and in perfect condition and everything had been made on it (with no milling machine and just a hand drill).

I'd mentioned Gauge 3 and he said that he'd thought of building an 'Eagle' but had never started it - and would I like the Model Mechanic magazines with those articles in? I obviously said yes - and that's how I came to have them myself. He also told me his son wasn't at all interested in model engineering and that he thought everything would end up at Auction, which seemed very sad. I do hope his son decided to keep some of his Dad's models, as they were really nice.

Anyway Jon - I'm not sure where you are located but if you are in the UK - perhaps I can look forward to seeing your 'Eagle' running at a GTG one day. I hope so - good luck with your engine and if we can help, please let us know.

Regards,

IanT 

         

[Jon_C]

Ralph, if it gets to complition and running then by all mean I'll take the text and do a build diary for the gauge 3 wiki site.

Ian, I did update my location last night as well as some other details,  if it's not showing I'm not sure why? But im based up near Darlington a stones throw from NRM's Locomotion.

I tend to aquire scrap metal from the skip at work and where possible avoid buying materials, unless required. So for the frames instead of 3/32" steel as specified I'll be using 2mm and adjusting the width of the horn backs, and stretchers to suit this small difference in size. I have a large piece of steel aquired from work which is perfect for this. It will be cut to size then submersed in a citric acid bath overnight to clean it up of surface rust and paint. Making nice shiny steel to "blue" up and mark out.

[Jon_C]

Here is another eagle locomotive, painted in a beautiful LMS livery. Steaming up to take Chris Almond on a run. Credit to Ben Pavier of BP locomotive works for the photo.

[IanT]

No, it's fine Jon, it's just me! Sorry, it didn't occur to me to look at your profile before posting.

I certainly like your approach to acquiring materials - G3 live steam doesn't have to be expensive, it's always been a trade off between time and money, which is just down to how much time and/or money you have to spare or want to spend. One of our members has built several excellent G3 steam engines (to his own design) and if asked will tell you they have cost him virtually nothing - apart from some hours of (for him) enjoyable effort.   

With regards to rust removal - I use citric too but mostly these days for either pickling (after brazing) or cleaning up small parts. Where anything larger is involved (especially flat/plate material), I've found electrolysis to be a better approach. It's simple to do, inexpensive and works really well (especially for boot-sale 'tools' where I don't want to further damage cutting edges). It just needs a 12v battery charger, plastic tub (or bucket) and some washing soda (Sodium Carbonate) - which is cheaply available in Tesco's.

It does need some kind of preventative treatment immediately afterwards (primer, Jenolite, machine wax or oil), otherwise it will quickly regain a light 'sheen' of rust - but this is because it's really down to bare metal.

Anyway, good to hear from you and please keep us up to date on your progress.

Regards,

IanT

   

[Jon_C]

Speaking of boot sale tools, £20 spent today at an indoor carboot sale. For my money, a Moore and wright 1-2" micrometer, and 2-3" micrometer, (both calibrated and working perfectly. BA spanners and flat head screwdriver set-all joined together and opens out like a pocket knife. Jacobs  chuck key, (hoping it fits one I bought earlier) eclipse automatic centre punch, and a countersink bit-unused. Thankfully no rust removal needed on any tools this time.
Also bought some  small plates with some showmans engines on them.

[IanT]

Sounds like you got quite a few good deals there Jon.

Bargains are not so common down here now unfortunately - it's mostly semi-professional car-booters who want silly money for junk, so I don't bother going to them much these days...

IanT

[Jon_C]

Making a start

Firstly this project may take a while to complete, I usually only get a couple hours a night in my shed (if i'm lucky). However I will be doing the write up aimed at the beginner, who has never built an engine before. So I make no apologies if I go over a technique, or method that would be considered second nature to anyone here that has been doing it for years. A point was raised elsewhere on this forum about some people not owning a mill only a lathe and even some that have built an engine using only hand tools and a cordless drill. Where possible I will show a method for basic hand tools, but also show a method for lathe, mill, or other power tools that find their use into the build to speed up completion.

Secondly I tend to try my best to acquire materials for free. Whether this be the works skip, or offcuts from engineering firms. Due to the processes involved in manufacturing parts there is always an odd end of this or that, consequently this usually ends up in the scrap bin, however these small offcuts are perfectly sized for our needs in this scale.

Following on from that last statement, this prime piece of 2mm thick steel sheet was selected to make the frames for the eagle. (and another loco )




To begin with the frames where roughed out so they could be cleaned up. I have decided to start with the tender first, and advise you do also. This way if you are just starting out, you can make any mistakes on the tender rather than your lovely engine. If it needs to be rebuilt it will not be as costly. It also gives you something to test around your track.
I left a 1/16" extra over the required measurement while roughing out, to allow me to file back and square up the frames. As described in the article, starting with 2.1/2" flat bar material would be a better idea. This is down to your own preference as sheet steel may be more useful depending on how many more locomotives you intend to build. 




The sheet was first cut down to length, then sawn to width, (or rather height). This still did not allow me to get my hacksaw across the full length of the frame. So a cut from either end was required. The saw blade can be steered by gently tilting the handle and raising the saw to cut at a more acute angle. For a straight edge to your cut, (or at least close), it is best to try and get the saw at as low angle as possible this also having the benefit of increasing the amount of teeth in touch with the metal and actually cutting.




An important thing to remember with any tool is make sure it does the work and not you. For a saw that's simply laying as many of the teeth of the blade on the work as possible. Shown is my trusty homemade hacksaw, I do have prettier ones but this is comfortable when cutting and also holds a line better too.




When sawing steel, especially with a hacksaw, it is important to deburr the raggedy edge by running a flat file over the cut surface. This is more to save your hands been cut to shreds when you inadvertently grab one of the pieces and have to go see SWMBO for a plaster . However it is also good engineering practice not to leave ragged edges and to deburr faces on work.

[Jon_C]

Sometimes I hate computers, two hours writing the next post, and it disappears just like that, due to me pressing the wrong button.  DOH!  To be continued tommorrow evening.

[IanT]

Maybe typing into Notepad first Jon - and then pasting it here afterwards would help in the future?  :-)

Regards,

IanT

[Jon_C]

Things start to cut an awful lot faster when power is added, your arms will thank you for it. This is all the materials for the main frames, tender frames, one of the frame spacers, and the horn guides, the axle boxes will be of cast iron or bronze. Remember safety first, your eyes are precious so wear goggles when using power tools.


Pictured is the frame spacer been marked out. To mark an accurate line for where we want to cut, first an area where we want to scribe a line is "blued". This is done with engineers blue, however if you have ever had the pleasure of using this you will know that you end up looking more like a Smurf than a human by the end of it. If your just starting out try instead to use a sharpie marker pen. Far easier, less messy, and only a couple of quid from a stationary or sometimes a pound shop. The set square is placed against a datum, (flat edge), in this case I am using the uncut edge of the steel bar stock. a ruler which has its scale starting from the very edge is then placed up against the set square. The square can then be slid to position and a line scribed across it. If you don't have a scriber, a sowing needle will work just as well. Or one is usually tucked away in a tri-square set, which will find many uses in the hobby shop so a worthwhile investment.


Ladies and gentleman may I introduce the buffer beams and another stretcher. Its in there somewhere we just have to use out imaginations and wit. I would imagine a lot of people would look at that lump of metal as only fit for scrap, but there is some useful pieces in there for this project and a bit left over too.


This is one piece of the angle getting set up in the vice for filing, as can be seen there is a piece of round stock in the inside edge of the angle, this is there so that the top surface will sit at 90 degrees to the jaws, and thus makes filing it flat so much easier. For a milling machine this trick is used to square stock up as the jaw is tightened the work tends to push up, by using a piece of drill rod, or a drill bit, the work stays true to the reference edge of the vice, the none movable jaw. More on this further in the thread.


Apologies for the poor photo but you should be able to see the light poking through between the angle, and the set square which is resting against the flat edge at the front.


The buffers were cut to 5", on the drawing its stated as 4.1/2". This will leave excess for the next step of truing up the angle. This is bright mild steel, characterised by the square edge profile. Now there is nothing to stop you using it like this if you wish, however it is not a true 90 degrees, steel angle tends to be anywhere from 89-91 degrees, doesn't sound much but try and assemble a frame square with all these angles off, so now we true it up square with a file.
First the top face is filed with a medium file, to see the shiny stuff beneath. This also gives a nice surface to "blue" with that ink. Run the file along the length starting at the 90 degree corner. This will begin to gain the true 90 degree angle required. The file will remove the ink where its cutting, these are the high spots. Keep taking long passes of the work and repeat as many times as required. Checking with the square for the 90 degree corner.


Once you are happy its fairly square, its now time to polish it up. To do that take a smooth file and ink the work, run the file as flat as possible a few times over the work, and clean up the high bits to get a piece of angle that is flat on both sides, and more importantly at 90 degrees between the two outside faces.



The same technique of bluing and filing to reference will be used for the tender and main frames so worthwhile getting practice in now on the buffers. This can also be done on a mill quite easily, using a fly cutter for the surfaces, with the rod between the work and the movable jaw of the vice. The frames are quite an odd shape and the hardest thing that people struggle with is gaining a datum. Ill show you this next week as I have a busy weekend planned.

[IanT]

Very good Jon!  :-)

I hope you will not mind if I comment & make the odd suggestion as you go along.

I wasn't sure if the 'final' filing pass was 'draw' filing or not - but this is often used for finish filing. The file is held at each end and pulled over the length of the work at right angles to it. It is generally easier to keep the file flat and avoid rounding the edges this way. It is only for a finishing cut though, as a fine file is used.

For the 'lathe-only' worker, there are ways of doing this work in the lathe, one being to clamp the part in the tool post and fly-cut it. This does need sufficient cross-slide travel though. The faceplate could also be used but would require some work to make (and arrange) suitable clamps - but this method does not require as much cross-slide travel.

I mention these as alternatives for anyone without a mill (or shaper) but for one-off jobs it is often quicker to just use hand methods - the key thing being not to rush the work - e.g. file a little, check, file a bit more etc.

Look forward to the next instalment Jon.

Regards,

IanT

     

[Jon_C]

Hi Ian, No I don't mind at all chip in as you please. The final method was to draw file (not fully explained by myself). The large file takes some of the ink away on the high spots, these are then filed using a much smaller file (not pictured) to take tiny amounts away until you can do a full pass and the file makes contact along the whole length and width of the metal surface. I did think I'd mentioned flycutting but perhaps not the second time writing the post. My bad. I do intend to show both methods but first I need to set my lathe and mill back up.