LOOSE OR LOST PARTS REGISTER

[AshleyW]

THOUGHT I'D SHARE MY EXPERIENCE OF LOOSE OR LOST BRIT BITS, NOT AS AN ATTACK AT KINGSCALE, PURELY SO YOU CAN CHECK YOUR LOCOMOTIVE AFTER EACH RUN TO BE SURE NOTHING IS AMISS.IF YOU ALSO HAVE SIMILAR EXPERIENCES OR OTHER ITEMS TO POINT OUT,PLEASE USE THIS TOPIC TO SHARE.THANK YOU.

[AshleyW]

MY FIRST ITEM TO PART FROM THE LOCO (WHILST STILL IN BOX AND GENTLY HANDLING) WAS A COPPER PIPE, R/H SIDE WHICH COMES FROM BENEATH THE RUNNING PLATE AND UNDER THE CAB FLOOR- IT TAKES SOME STUDYING TO FATHOM EXACTLY WHERE IT CAME FROM AND ALSO WETHER IT PASSED THROUGH THE INJECTOR BENATH THE CAB,AS THAT HAS HOLES EITHER SIDE,BUT GIVEN THE CURVE ON THE PIPE,SUSPECT IT DID NOT PASS THROUGH- ALSO NOTED THAT BRACKET UNDER R/H SIDE CAB HAS WORKED LOOSE.

OTHER ITEM WAS A SMALL CYLINDRYCAL DRUM WITH A TAPER CONED END AND A THREADED BOSS AT THE OTHER. INITALLY I THOUGHT IT WAS DETAIL FROM UNDER THE TENDER, BUT IN FACT IT IS A BUMP STOP FROM UNDER THE CAB FLOOR .THE TOP OF THE PONY TRUCK COMES INTO CONTACT WITH THESE AND I HAVE ADDED P.V.A TO THE THREADS TO TRY PREVENT ANOTHER ONE WORKING LOOSE-LUCKILY I FOUND MINE IN THE BOX AND DID NOT LOOSE IT OUT ON THE ROAD

[454]

Brit 002:

On unpacking tender back in November, noticed a length of dummy (vac ?) pipe had dropped off. Have not bothered to fix it or report it as it is so vulnerable I can't get excited about it's demise. It's absence not normally noticeable when the functional 3 service pipes are connected between loco & tender.

Some of the decorative copper pipe embellishments seemed to be a bit floppy from the outset.

Loco was essentially intact upon thorough visual inspection.

Although later on:-

Reverser shaft: Universal joint grub screw lost grip & became loose upon manually winding reverser with the supplied tool when counting the number of turns during the period when I was planning the design of the reverser control RC mechanism. Centralising the loose UJ & tightening the grub screw was the solution. I reported this to Kingscale.

The under cab pony truck is a source of concern. Mainly applicable when in reverse. The springing seems non existent even though a spring is visible & the axle boxes could slide between the horns if they had the freedom to do so. The bumpers limiting the vertical movement of the pony truck are solid & screwed into the underside of the loco frame. If these were spring loaded plungers then the pony truck would be forced to stay on the track & not be susceptible to lifting & jumping the track. Will check the back to back when I find my callipers.

Other than the above the general quality of the model is excellent & I am very happy with Brit 002.

Don't want to seem like I'm nitpicking but I tell it as it is.

I will report back on back to back measurements after the lost calliper hunt.......

Dave
454

[454]

Found my vernier callipers and the back to back of the pony truck wheels is 58,0 mm.
That is spot on what it should be so the fault is elsewhere.

Dave
454

[AshleyW]

today i re-fixed my copper injector pipe,only to knock another one off in the process,they are held into the detail fittings with minimal amount of the pipe sitting into the socket,both were epoxied back in place, with a little on the edge of the fire box to help secure.

when i was re fitting the pony truck, it occured to me that the sideward motion of the truck on curves may impart pressue on the pipe work and is the likley cause of it's nature to remove itself from the loco, i have tweaked mine up the side of the firebox a little to be more clear of the pony truck. fingers crossed.

i also wanted to tighten the loose bracket holding the r/h injector beneath the cab. a nut runner cannot get up against the inside edge of the bracket,so with out some major strip down (to get a mini spanner on there) it seems like an impossible task- unless there is a nut runner available with only half a side to it?

i have also noticed that the foot of the smoke deflectors on the "piano front" do not touch the floor, does any one else have  the same?

[DanDe]

I had a loose copper pipe come adrift on the Britannia at the boiler test event and suspect now some other pipes are only lightly attached. Cleared out the resin (fiddly) from the attaching holes and re-glued the loose pipe in. This turned out to be the least of the problems as a fault on the gas tank (gas leak past 'o' ring on the wheel/valve) the steam test was not undertaken.  Didn't fancy removing the gas tank so the tender goes back to Silver Crest Tues. for repair (they are paying postage). Also discovered at the event the gas connection to the gas-in on the tank was missing. One or two other Britannia issues arose on the day which is evident from the blogs, most of an annoying nature rather than serious - but very annoying anyway. As a new member I got quite a bit of help with the loco and learnt a few things - thanks guys. Took a short video of events on the day - it starts off with members in the garden steaming up their locos with hailstones coming down!

[AshleyW]

BR1G TENDER PLATE- mine came away from rear of tender, again very lucky to find it in my box, please keep an eye on yours after each run- top centre of rear of tender.

[454]

Opened the Brit box today & lifted her out to work out how to get everything in the cab for the RC & to my bewilderment in the box was a piece of copper wire i.e. Brit dummy pipe.

Come on guys where did it come from?

Attached photo with a ruler for size comparison.

Dave
454

[AllWight]

Looking at the shape its probably one of the dummy pipes from the injectors below the cab on the firemans side.

Mark

[454]

Wish it was Mark, that would be too easy. All seems to be intact there.

I should have photographed both sides when I became acquainted with it on day one.
Should not have been so naive to think that nothing would drop off.

Dave
454

[454]

Yesterday after the Timperley GTG thought I would do a good clean up of my Brit & just do an inspection.
Took out the radio & just turned the reverser handle to check the reverser linkages & each rev was a couple of clunks.
Looking underneath & 2 tiny hex head screws had dropped out into the box.
The universal joint was just holding on with shaft fixings. The shaft grub screws were ok.

The solution was to fit a steel split pin through the UJ hole to engage the 2 halves together.
There is now no slop, where there was lots.
The clunk has gone.

This is the first non-standard modification. Me thinks an improvement.

Dave
454