Making curved track

[Jon Nazareth]

I'm thinking of making a simple end to end track in my garden with a straight version at 11m long or a curved version at 16m long.  My question is, if I bought some of Cliff's ready made track, could I bend it to my curve as one can bend Peco flexi track?  It's not an horrendous curve maybe 5-7m radius.

Regards
Jon

[John Candy]

Jon,

I have laid Cliff's track as I would "flexible" track (i.e. without using a "rail bender") without any problems.

I do use a rail bender on the Tenmille (code 330) GRS-type rail which resists flexing.

Regards,
John.

[AllWight]

Do not forget to super elevate the track as well with the transition curves

Mark

[MikeWilliams]

Jon is talking about an out-and-back, not a continuous run, so speeds would be low, and a 5m to 7m radius.  Do you really need super-elevation (cant) on that?  Many live steam garden lines use that radius and although some do have super-elevation, I'm sure some do not.

Think I'd keep it flat as that also avoids problems with solid (unsprung) stock, all wheels of which cannot remain on the track as you enter a super-elevated curve.

Mike

[AllWight]

Fair point Mike. However you show me a garden railway where there is no lumpy bits of track and i will eat my hat.

Mark

PS i do not own a hat so the whole exercise would be futile

[Jon Nazareth]

I would like a continuous system so that I can watch the loco going around and around but it would be too invasive in the garden.  The setup I am thinking about would be of the track fixed to plastic planks which are then fixed to angle brackets, bought at B&Q or Homebase, which are then screwed to the garden wall.  One wall has a curve the other is straight and no, they are not connected.

Regards
Jon

[hornbeam]

Well on the line I'm building I used a GRS rail bender and pre rolled the curves using their bigger rail then assembled the track. As I'm using a concrete base with fixing batterns I also opted for pre rolling cliffs rail as well then assembling the sleepers on it. I used an extra set of GRS rollers to do this, meant for peso G45 rail but do the job on cliffs rail well.

[Geoff Nicholls]

I use Cliff Barker's track on my indoor layout and the scenic section (all 2.1metres of it) is all curves

http://www.westernthunder.co.uk/index.php?threads/a-micro-layout-in-gauge-3.3951/

I bought a 3m curve template from Cliff and used that. It was very easy.  I have the GRS track in the fiddle yard. For 5m or 7m curves, I think that would not be difficult, but the two types would be difficult to join. mine meet at a baseboard join, so only have to meet at the same height.

[Jon Nazareth]

Thanks for the answer, John, that started this topic.

Talking of joining rail, Geoff, do the sections of rail need joining with screwed tie bars? 

I clicked on the link but it wouldn't allow me access to the pictures.

Regards
Jon

[Geoff Nicholls]

sorry, I forgot you'd need to create an account to see it, though that only take a minute or so.

if, when joining rails, you mean joining sections of Cliff Barker's track together, he sells very realistic looking rail joiners moulded in sun resistant plastic. I would guess they'd hold the track together outdoors even if it's not screwed down. But someone else with an outdoor layout will probably confirm that later.

[Jon Nazareth]

I take it then that the plastic joiners are for cosmetic use only.  Is this correct?

Jon

[Geoff Nicholls]

no, the opposite, the plastic joiners are what you are supposed to use to join the sections. They're a much tighter fit than I used to get with PECO 7mm track and rail joiners. But they also  look very good as well. I sprayed my track with Humbrol matt dark earth to give a weathered effect, it brings out the bolt detail nicely.