Thump... Thump... Thump...

[cabbage]

I have been busy over the past few evenings with a collection of 750mm "Metposts" and a 5Kg sledgehammer. I did initially start out with the premise that I was going to build a circa 1920's style layout in my new garden. Slowly and surely I hit my thumb and swore as I made all the lengths of track!!! I am now at the position where I can see the end of the first run of "Metposts"... As I was having my weekend breather from this I sat down and read a few entries on trackbed construction and I have been horrified that there has been no new "ideas" on the subject since about 1970(?)

My own installation will be a classical "Plank on Post" setup running at what is at one point, (maybe two?), ground level. Living in Derbyshire means the concept of "level" is unknown... I have had to use the books of Tustin, Freezer and Evans to get my ideas from. The method I am using to produce the trackbed resembles more a "cable tray' as found in large computer installations I intend to use a plank of 150mm x 50mm with longitudinal stringers of 50mm x 25mm. This should give me something strong enough to walk on and take the weight of my locos -ideal for "rescues"...

Certain friends have jokingly offered the use of Laser and Gyro-Gravitic positioning tools because I have something of a "thing" about straights being straight and curves being "just so". However "snap" with a length of garden twine and blue chalk will do for me -after all it is similar to the original techniques! One of the problems NOT envisaged by the placement of my marker posts earlier this year, was that a few of them would be "colonised" by clematis, glory vines and a passion flower...

regards

ralph

[midnight miller]

Hello Cabbage and All

For garden railway inspiration try Don Neal and the Kirtly Branch in I think the August Railway Modeler for 1970


                                                    John

[cabbage]

Yes -this is what I mean!!! The Tustin book "Garden Railways" is dated 1949, "Railways in your Garden" is dated 1994 (I have the 2001 edition too), "Outdoor Model Railways" by Martin Evans is dated 1970. Cyril Freezers "The Garden Railway Manual" is dated 1995 but the illustrations and drawings in it are clearly from an earlier time... The only other source books seem to be American and quite firmly biased towards 45mm gauge

What is interesting is the sections on G3 in all the books concerned.

1949:The Tustin Book gives quite  few pictures of inter wars period G3 layouts.
1970:The Evans book notes that 2.5 inch gauge exists...
1994:The Freezer book gives 1 and quarter columns out of 160 pages to it(!)
2001:The "Railways in your Garden" book devotes  some of the introduction and there are at least a few "inspirational shots" of G3 in it. (It also notes that G3 is enjoying something of a revival!!!)

But since then there hasn't really been anything new on the subject of building a G3 railway. I LOVE the illustration in the Railways in your Garden of the classical 1920's wood work and steam engine (actually in 1997) and I would adore to have this in my garden -however "domestic authorities" would never have it. Similarly a Barbie Pink painted greenhouse was outlawed by me -she has had it painted Barbie Pink on the inside and apricot on the outside, (it now matches the summer house)...

Other than the commercial retailers I haven't found any longevity rating on preservative paints. I normally use "Tanalith" treated timber and "C16" treated timber where it comes into contact with plants. This plus a good slathering with Cuprinol seems to give me about 5 years worth of playtime -but as I am getting old I think I would like something a little more robust -so I am going to use epoxy glaze to seal the wood in. I don't know how long this will extend the life of the timbers -it could even shorten them -but I think the risk is worth it. This is normally used to embed cables in -and I have a good local supply -all of it out of date stock from the local skip!!! The stuff slowly oxidises in the tins and after 6 months a sealed 5 litre tin has the consistency of rice pudding -but I am not fussy...

regards

ralph

[cabbage]

Yes I know that I have not kept up this thread.... However I have other more pressing domestic matters to deal with.

PeakyTim and Dave454 both know why I  have an aching back. I have been construction the corner that will be the mainstay (ha ha) of my track. This is  made from 25mm thick C6 rated tannilith treated timber. Initially it was 18 modules, then 9 then 3 and tomorrow finally united into 1. Each part is hand cut and glued and screwed. The curve is 3.35 metres in radius and 40 centimetres wide with a thickness of 7.5 centimetres. It used nearly a box of screws and 1.5 Kilogrammes of Urea Formaldehyde glue powder...

It weighs 85 Kilogrammes

Tomorrow a couple of old college chums are going to help me mix concrete and fix the wooden posts into the ground and then place the curve on top of it.



regards

ralph

[cabbage]

Like this....



regards

ralph

[cabbage]

Now I have two straights (I seem to remember that Hornby was a lot easier.....)

Each of the two straight modules is 2.4metres long (my timbers are 4.8metres long). The house is at the East end of the garden and the North facing straight heads towards the veg beds. The West facing straight will have a further six straight modules bolted to it. Thereafter I have to make a decision on wether to simply terminate or attempt to head towards the summer house and sun deck through the orchard.



regards

ralph

[cabbage]

Question to all potential visitors!!!!

How long is your train likely to be?

Now this may seem to be a strange question but it directly relates to how many 4.8m long sections I have to build compared to 2.4m sections...

2.4m is long enough for a loco a couple of carriages and a toad -or some wagons and a toad. As my locos are a little on the large size (and probably about to get larger!) this is of interest to me. The smallest I have is a NYC 'S' Motor at 47cm, the longest is the GIP "Krokodil" at 97cm. The largest G3 loco that is likely to move along the track is the C.M&St Paul BiPolar (1-B0-D0-D0-B0-1).

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:MILW_Bi-Polar_drawing.jpg

And there is the future possibility of a trio of 4X locos, (of various types), thus giving the possibility of "blue star" MU working...

So, what would you expect to run as I would like to be as hospitable as possible and allow my guests to run their trains?

regards

ralph

[454]

Ralph,
If I brought all my goods rolling stock to run then the freight train length could be at the latest count = 26 plus a choice of 3 brake vans so could be 29 or 27 depending on how many brake vans in train. I will let you work out the length. Oh I forgot the non-passenger stock i.e. one horse box.  Add No. 9 W&U luggage van & NE 4 wheel parcels/utility van.

Looking forward to that, at least won't have to do a 200+ mile round trip for a decent running session.

Cheers
Dave
454

[cabbage]

OK -so if I say that; a loco is 60cm, a Wagon is 25cm,  a Toad is 40cm, and a Carriage is 80cm -then this gives me a rough working "order" that I can build on.

It is looking increasingly like a 4.8m section at the end of the double track to allow storage and swapping, rather big and somewhat heavy -but if that is what it takes?

That would give; Loco 15 wagons and a Toad, Loco 4 carriages and a Brake. This should be enough for everyone to play with and watch shuttle up and down the garden.

Tomorrow I am the Derby Beer Festival morning to mid afternoon. A suitable time for old chums to discuss railways -and ideas. And of course -sample beer!!!

regards

ralph

[joewatt]

I got fed up trying to keep my track level and I had difficulty achieving the required 8ft minimum radius within the confines of my narrow garden. Then, I saw a recommendation on this forum to use 'Filcris Ltd' recycled plastic for a track-bed. I designed mine using their grey board, computer cut to my radius and width. Then, this was secured to their flexible edging using stainless steel 'turbo ultra' screws from 'Screwfix' to form an 'I' beam structure. These screws cut in no problem - no need for pilot holes or countersinks.
For across my patio I used removable sections, which are secured together using resin and stainless steel pinned oven hinges from a firm in Leeds. The structure on the patio is supported using adjustable plastic kitchen unit legs available from 'Amazon'. I realise that my solution can be a little costly - but it is a long term investment and should require little or no maintenance.
The track is secured using 'Interlink Fleximounts', the height of which conveniently matches the thickness of the grey board, so they can be screwed to the underside of the board up through easy to cut holes in the board.
Joe

[blagdon]

Ralph,

Your developing layout looks great, keep up the good work!

Ian the Gauge '3'Pirate

[cabbage]

Well despite the temperature and added humidity, (I was regularly "sprayed" by my son with his Super Soaker), I did manage to build and fit a complete 4.8m long section in the afternoon. This shows the section underside before it was slid out onto the posts and fastened there.



After some fiddling with a level on a length of 25x50 wood -It now looks like this.



As you can see unfortunate news for the Largest Pear tree and more for the Largest Plum....

regards

ralph

[cabbage]

Gentlemen Start Your Engines.....





The drag strip for diesels and electrics has been constructed. Although there is a kink of two that I have to plane out....

regards

ralph

[cabbage]

All the fixed sections have been constructed. The movable sections are still in the wood pile.

So for your cinematic delectation Brassica Productions and Glass Hammer PRESENT!!!

http://www.cabbagepatchrailway.co.uk/cabbagep/coffee.m4v

Ice Creams and refreshments are available from the kiosk....

regards

ralph

[blagdon]

Watched the video; well done Ralph.

Ian the Gauge '3'Pirate